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 ADVANCED
Sea of Screams
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidents Will Happen S,TR 
Charlie Manson Look Alike Contest S 
Cheap Skate S 
Cheap Tape S 
Cling Free T 
Cream T 
Crusin' for a Bruisin S,TR 
Hobbit, The T 
Jet Stream S 
Little Women T 
Mid Life Crisis S 
Monkey on a Football S 
Pauper T 
Scream Dream S 
Scream Seam T 
Silent Scream S 
Snow White T 
Soft-N-Pretty T 
Super Slide S,TR 
Taken By Force S 
Typhoon T 
Who's Got the Juice S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Hobbit 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: U F.A. Hollingsworth, Lowell 1973
Page Views: 2,594
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: The 'start' of The Hobbit... I would scramble up t...

Description 

This route is not good for a new leader. Placing gear for the first 15 feet is awkward and working up through the middle section as well. The flared dike up in the middle section fades and can make things interesting. The second pitch is really nice. Offers some opportunities to TR some of the harder routes up that face.

Location 

Climbs and obvious crack on the left side of Sea of Screams. A big boulder marks the start of this route. Rap off from the chains up top.

Protection 

Standard Gear.


Comments on The Hobbit Add Comment
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By Andrew Klein
Jul 18, 2007

The first 15 feet is like a flaring seam hand crack you find at Lumpy Ridge, CO. You can jam some small aliens or the like in the way back about 10 feet up. Cheers!
By CalebSimpson
Jan 5, 2009

Or just start on the boulder to the right, you can stem out over the "start hole" and put a .75 in the flake up high on the left and then fire on up.
By Chris Walden
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The first part of this climb is stout and as mentioned not advising new leaders to tackle this, practice elsewhere. The crack is more of a flared water crack making placing pro difficult.

I'll grade the start more at 5.9 (easier than the S-Wall), however, the second pitch is short but runs at 5.7

The start of the climb had poison ivy and the first 15 - 20 feet is unprotectable. I would suggest climbing the boulder to the right, placing a bomber nut (photo with green arrow) with a full length sling and climb on.

Instead of starting up the flaring unprotectable c...
Instead of starting up the flaring unprotectable crack, climb the boulder and drop a bomber nut here!
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