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The Hidden Persuaders 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA: Larry DeAngelo, George Wilson
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: George Wilson on Feb 13, 2011
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Second pitch

Description 

This route is just as good as Birdland...Minus the bolts!


1. Start on a boulder making a move or two up to a horizontal. Trend left following holds to another horizontal. Trend back right on a blank face(crux)toward a crack/corner and up to a belay ledge. Careful placing pro low as rope drag becomes an issue. This is a heady pitch!

2. Move belay under the corner. Climb the corner and traverse right about 50' and set a belay.

3. Climb the hand crack. Set a belay about 40' above its top.

4. Zig left from the belay then back right. Set a belay below the varnish. This is a short pitch.

5. Climb the beautiful face! Set a belay near the top of varnish.

6. Head up the varnish until the angle eases into a large ramp. Set a belay near the top of the ramp.


Location 

Approach as per birdland. From the bottom of birdland scramble up and west until you come to a tunnel. At the back of the tunnel, boulder up and head west again until you get to a large chasm with a black varnished wall. Boulder up to the start.

Getting Down. Head east toward a small notch passing some old pitons along the way. Rappel off slung boulders (original bighorn descent) until you can join the birdland rappels.


Protection 

Standard rack...C3's were necessary for the first pitch, dolts and a #8 titon for the pitches above! We climbed the route on double 50's, a 70m single would work for the rappels.



Photos of The Hidden Persuaders Slideshow Add Photo
beta
BETA PHOTO: beta
The approach
BETA PHOTO: The approach
Looking down on pitch 3/4 of Hidden Persuaders
Looking down on pitch 3/4 of Hidden Persuaders
Larry on the 3rd pitch
Larry on the 3rd pitch
1st pitch
1st pitch
Larry on the beautiful 5th pitch
Larry on the beautiful 5th pitch
Second pitch corner crack of Hidden Persuaders
Second pitch corner crack of Hidden Persuaders
Old pitons on the descent
Old pitons on the descent
Final long pitch of Hidden Persuaders
Final long pitch of Hidden Persuaders
Comments on The Hidden Persuaders Add Comment
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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

While I enjoyed climbing this route, I really do not think it is the quality of Birdland, (which I think is among the best routes in the park for good rock and classic climbing). We did the first pitch as described but looking at the photo posted here we were a bit further left - started off the boulder, climbed up past 3 horizontals gradually moving from left to right. The final horizontal was full of dirt and crumbling but we just climbed straight over it until standing above the final section of brown varnish then carefully stepped right into the crack. The crumbling rock distracted from this pitches quality - probably R rated just due to the questionable gear. The second pitch is pretty wide at the start but goes easier than you think - about 5.8 on bullet proof rock. We linked the next 4 pitches into 2 pairs - 5.7 160 feet, 5.5 200 feet - making the entire route 4 pitches. A nice outing on sunny rock on a cold day.