|Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.
Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.
Gear to 3" including wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap
Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.
Looking up at the crux
Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux mo...
Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Jun 6, 2006
The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2007
This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot.
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot.
|By James R. Arnold|
Apr 21, 2009
This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.
Jul 11, 2009
I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.
|By Indira Lower|
Aug 1, 2011
I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof).
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011
Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :)
|By The Ruin-er|
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Bill said it.
Jun 10, 2013
BETA - Once pulling over the crux (bulge), you'll find a perfect green camelot (.75) placement.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though.
|By Adam Burch|
Feb 25, 2014
I found an offset metolius jammed in the back of the flared crack of the roof gave me the calmz to do it.