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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
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Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

The Hernia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lee Harrell and S. Wood, August 1967
Page Views: 4,124
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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An awkward and insecure move from the right will g...

Description 

Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.

Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.


Protection 

Gear to 3" including wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap



Photos of The Hernia Slideshow Add Photo
Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.
Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.
Looking up at the crux
Looking up at the crux
Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux moves coming up.
Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux mo...
Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.
Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.
Comments on The Hernia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2007

This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot.

By 858jason
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot.

By James R. Arnold
Apr 21, 2009

This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.

By mmurduff
Jul 11, 2009

I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.

By Indira Lower
Aug 1, 2011

I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof).

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011

Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :)

By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Bill said it.

By Yacov
Jun 10, 2013

BETA - Once pulling over the crux (bulge), you'll find a perfect green camelot (.75) placement.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though.

By Adam Burch
From: San Dieger
Feb 25, 2014

I found an offset metolius jammed in the back of the flared crack of the roof gave me the calmz to do it.