The Heretic  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Tony Yaniro, 1988 Submitted By:  Mike Anderson on Jun 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sending the Heretic...photo by my 6 year old, Luca...

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Description 

This is a fantastic sport climb that was WAY ahead of its time. The rock is perfect, and the moves are elaborate, unusual, and hard. I didn't detect any chipping or other "funny business" on this route, which means it's probably the hardest "natural" route at the City/Castles.

Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow. This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.

The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features. I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.

This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.

Location 

At the Dungeon, there are three routes all squeezed together that kind of confuse things. The Heretic is the left-most route. It starts under a small roof and climbs up a blunt prow for the first couple bolts (not in the corner where Ball and Chain starts). After the initial crux, it climbs over to the corner to B & C then heads straight up the overhanging hueco feature where B & C moves right around the blunt prow on jugs.

Protection 

bolts