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A fun little crag with some unusual routes. Mt Lemmons's answer to the Frog Prince area at Datil.
There is some confusion (my fault) about route naming in the cave:
Chain Gang - the name EFR gave to the roof chains.
No Climb For Old Men = El Torito start + Chain Gang
Freeloader = Dwarf Toss start + Chain Gang
Park just down-road from the Window. Same as for Middle Earth. I'll post a map. 10 min approach.
14 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Helmet:
Danny Likes Men 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, 50'
Tony's Route 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 50'
Demolition Derby 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 45'
El Torito 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 35'
The Crossing 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 40'
Dwarf Toss 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 35'
Featured Route For The Helmet
Freeloader 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Helmet
From near the El Torito anchors you can see a line of letter-boxes, slopers and rails heading straight right out the 20+ foot ceiling to the center of the roof. When I realized it might go I was amazed. This extension was dubbed "Chain Gang" by EFR and that has stuck. If you start on Dwarf Toss and finish on Chain Gang, you have done one long, hard line that is completely independent of El Torito and the other cave routes... Freeloader.Vince came up with the name to underscore the fact that I ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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