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Unsorted Routes:

The Heavy Hitter 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Moore
Season: Any
Page Views: 2,915
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 22, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Right or left at the huecos, both are good.

Description 

I was told that the first ascensionist wanted to rate this climb 5.11a. I am not sure if a final rating has been decided, but I consider it to be a mid-range 5.10.

There is a tricky sequence at the bottom of this route (smearing feet), followed by easier climbing. This second "crux" involves moving through some huge huecos near the top. If you proceed left through the huecos the climbing is easier, but more reachy; proceed to the right, and you have a few harder moves but they are very straight forward.


Location 

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fifth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and starts in a right-facing scooped corner.


Protection 

Several bolts to the shiny new chains.



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By Danny Meyers
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I'm under the impression that this route's called The Heavy Hitter, I don't know, I could be wrong but........ Bottom line is that it is a really good route and general consensus on the grade seems to be 5.10c. Enjoy.

By scottydo
From: ventura, ca
Apr 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I thought that this route was harder than Nightmare on Crude Street so I put it at 5.11a

By dnoB ekiM
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great Route! Great Name! "One Fall, that's all!"

By Jordan Hrabak
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jul 9, 2010

Crux near the top

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I've climbed this route twice now and upon further reflection a couple of thoughts.

First, a stick clip isnt a bad idea for the first bolt- the starts pretty funky and doesnt have a great stance to clip the first bolt. The second is strenuous, but the holds are bigger.

Second, this route is really sustained- far more sustained than most other .10s ive done in Red Rock- even more so than the two sandbagged ones @ the Dog Wall- its probably an .11a compared to the other .10s in the area.

Third, not sure where the supposed crux is- didnt find a mantle anywhere on route, the thing just kept coming at me until the chains- although there was one move that felt pretty damn hard, but it could have been the pump.

Finally, I'd vote to move the anchor higher up than it currently is- clipping it is kind of a PITA and it'd be better to clip a bolt there, then climb up to the shelf and clip the anchor.

All in all, a great route and well worth doing if you're climbing hard .10s and in the corridor.