This has nice, exposed cracks on two short pitches on the Fourth Elephant Buttress. Start as you would for the Northwest Face, but continue right to a thin crack. Make an committing exposed step to the right and up the thin crack to a nice belay ledge. Pitch 2 begins by going around to the left of the dihedral and going up the the crack to the left of the dihedral to the top.
Standard rack- nuts and cams.
|Comments on The Heartland
|By Francisco Manzo|
Sep 18, 2002
I forgot to mention that this route has a lot of lichen, and that it would rate much higher if it got a good cleaning, but despite this the gear is great and BOMBER.
|By Biggwave Dave|
Sep 25, 2002
One bad-ass route! Not for the meek leader just getting use to 5.9. Short and sweet with a nice bit of creative pro at the begining of the first pitch. Enjoy! The route will only get better!
|By Dougald MacDonald|
May 23, 2011
I'm giving this route three stars for what it COULD be, not what it is. It's infested with lichen and slippery when wet, but the climbing is excellent, the pro is good, and the position is superb. If only it got more traffic...or a good brushing. Do your part. Do this route! Oh, and the short second pitch is also quite good and lichen-free.