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(4) Maple Tree Cluster
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The Head Wall 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: What a rock pipe looks like. What bud looks like w...

Description 

Start by the Maple Tree, a few face moves to gain a small ledge and a short 5' traverse to the left then ascend the broken buttress up to a stance 20' down from the top where there are anchors.

Protection 

Cams, mostly very small to a single 2", and a 3/4-7/8" nut for an solid piece at the crux at the top and a small lighter.


Photos of The Head Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Variation exit on the left 03.19.15
Variation exit on the left 03.19.15

Comments on The Head Wall Add Comment
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By Billcoe
Jul 9, 2014

Congratulations to our Washington brothers who can, as of today, legally now partake of a puff of weed without being criminals or breaking any laws. In the spirit of legality and openness I will out the following. The name of this route came due to the rock pipe that was drilled into the route at the anchor. A small weatherproof plastic film canister was tucked up on a ledge of what is now not illegal substance was left behind with the caveat that if any climber wanted a puff, feel free to take some out and help yourself (if there was some in the canister), if you were flush and had some extra, leave a little bit extra in the film canister for your bros who will be following.

In climbing parlance, a headwall typically is the most challenging part of a big wall. In this case, the name derived not from it being a challenge, as to the fact that there was the rock pipe to help your head:-)
By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

A bit run out to the gear at the upper stance which is in a flaring crack. We took the left exit as a variation and it protected with a 0.3 Totem cam well and/or a small nut turned sideways. I believe the original line exits to the right as per the yellow route indicator.

There wasn't anything in the guide book about the rock pipe so I guess we missed out. Next time we will go around 4:20
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