Moderate face climbing on slightly less than vertical rock. The first routes ascend this wall on blocky jugs down low, which then leads to excellent crisp edges up high. Mainly sport routes that are long (80-100 ft). Numerous trees at the base allow for a shady belay spot, while all the climbs face south, southwest making it shady in the morning, while sunning in the afternoon.
On the same approach towards the Red Wall and Starcastle, locate a cairn that breaks left or east into the talus field. Follow the cairns south (down the talus field) by boulder hopping to the next broken wall. Walk the base of the broken wall until it ends, and then break left. At this point you should see the Head Wall (the Headstone should be up and to your left). A large dead tree with its top sheered off will mark the first line on the wall--Classic Head.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Head Wall:
Head for Backstage Pass 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Head Wall
Head for Backstage Pass 5.11a CO : South Platte : ... : The Head Wall
Route to the immediate right of Classic Head. Good stemming moves lead to a ledge. Upon gaining access to the ledge, a nice 15-20 foot runout to the next bolt. Bring your 'nads or some gear to protect the run. Afterwards outstanding face climbing on fun edges occurs. You may stop at the first set or continue on to the top of Head Wall. If you continue on, bring more draws and tie a knot in your rope. The book says its 100ft to the top, but my 60m was at its ends at the first set....[more] Browse More Classics in CO