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 ADVANCED
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 

The Haulage 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard (1991)
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: ---- on Jul 8, 2013

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Description 

The Haulage, or “World’s Hardest Variation” as some call it, shares the first four bolts with the World’s Hardest 5.12. The four bolt opening section has fun climbing between slopers and jugs. The 5.12 section hits you right after the two routes diverge. Follow the left bolt line through a steep section of rock. Move up the 20 degree overhanging wall with a series of dead points and hard lock offs between slopers and edges. The crux sequence is 10 moves long and allows no margin for hesitation. The moves are hard, but very straight forward.

If you like soft falls you should leave the first bolt unclipped and place long draws or slings on bolts three and four. Short draws get the rope wedged in a crack and results in a not so fun abrupt catch. The route gets shade around 2:00 p.m.

Location 

Left most route on the First Buttress.

Protection 

7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor


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By ----
Jul 8, 2013

This route is seriously fun and just a couple good moves away from being four stars. The holds are all skin friendly and the crux is short so it makes for the sort of route you can try many times in a day.