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Routes in 2. First Buttress
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Haulage, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Leather Nun, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magnatude S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Oh, It's You Bob S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sanctified S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sticky Situation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tantrum, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard (1991) |
| Page Views: | 2,185 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Jul 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The Haulage, or Worlds Hardest Variation as some call it, shares the first four bolts with the Worlds Hardest 5.12. The four bolt opening section has fun climbing between slopers and jugs. The 5.12 section hits you right after the two routes diverge. Follow the left bolt line through a steep section of rock. Move up the 20 degree overhanging wall with a series of dead points and hard lock offs between slopers and edges. The crux sequence is 10 moves long and allows no margin for hesitation. The moves are hard, but very straight forward.
If you like soft falls you should leave the first bolt unclipped and place long draws or slings on bolts three and four. Short draws get the rope wedged in a crack and results in a not so fun abrupt catch. The route gets shade around 2:00 p.m.
If you like soft falls you should leave the first bolt unclipped and place long draws or slings on bolts three and four. Short draws get the rope wedged in a crack and results in a not so fun abrupt catch. The route gets shade around 2:00 p.m.
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