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Dry Creek Spire
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Black Arrow T 
Dry Creek Spire T 
Happy Ending, The T 

The Happy Ending 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Mike on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location 

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection 

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???

Description 

P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.

Location 

Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.

Protection 

Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???


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By Steve Skelton
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
Jan 18, 2013

The first pitch made me puke! Serious thrutching and harder than anything on Black Arrow. Gotta hate it to love it.