The Happy Ending 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | John Burcham, Zack Bastow |
| Submitted By: | Mike on Jul 12, 2011 |
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Description P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay. P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay. P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.
Location Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.
Protection Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???
Description P1: (5.9) Start up a slot with a crack in back. Crux is in first 20' (JMHO) and it gets easier & more fun as the slot becomes overhanging. Finishes at a bolted belay. P2: (5.10) Continue up the mostly easy chimney system to the obvious traverse right to a bolted face. Follow the bolts up great face climbing to a bolted belay. P3: (5.10) Ascend a short offwidth past 2 bolts to another bolt line. Follow these bolts up great moves on a nice arete to a bolted belay.
Location Located on the right side of the face in an obvious slot with the first belay anchors visible.
Protection Single set of cams from tiny thru #4 camalot, 1 #6 camalot, nuts. Rappel the route with one 70m rope. A 60 may work as well???
| Comments on The Happy Ending |
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By Steve Skelton From: Lyttelton, New Zealand Jan 18, 2013
| The first pitch made me puke! Serious thrutching and harder than anything on Black Arrow. Gotta hate it to love it. |
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