|West Face - Right Side
||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]|
|FA: ||(A3) Royal Robbins et. al., 1954, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, and Mike Lechlinski, 1978|
|Page Views: ||1,753|
|Submitted By: ||Bob Gaines on Jul 15, 2010|
||0 people like this page. Your opinion:
John Long, 1977, free-solo.
Photo captured by Off...
From the second belay of Jenson's Jaunt, climb up and right to a steep left-facing corner with a couple of fixed pins that leads up to the massive overhang. A bolt up and left protects the crux: a huge dynamic move is required.
The old 1/4 inch bolt that protected the crux was replaced in 2008 with a nice 1/2 inch bolt by Erik Roed.
|By John Long|
Jul 21, 2011
Does anyone ever climb this thing? Would be interesting to see how it fares up to modern sport climbers, who are very experienced at this kind of movement.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 28, 2012
John, I've never seen anyone on this. I've seen one party go through Pearly Gate, otherwise all traffic goes through Traitor Horn.
Apr 21, 2013
I've sat just under it while hanging in our belay waiting for a slow party in front of us on the Traitor Horn. It looks epic and exposed. I though about going for it after hanging and looking at it for so long. But the party finally got moving and my partner and I didn't know the grade.
Beta? Is that one huge dyno to the rim?