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 ADVANCED
Tarot Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

The Hanged Man 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True 2001
Page Views: 1,234
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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BETA PHOTO: The Hanged Man. The crux is the roof at the first...
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Description 

The Hanged Man is the rightmost climb on Tarot Wall. There is a low roof about 10' up. The Hanged Man climbs the roof about 10' left of the roof's right edge. This is about 10' right of The Horse.

This is a one-move climb, but not a one-move wonder. The crux is a not particularly interesting roof right off the ground. Maneuver under the roof on somewhat grungy rock to reach over and make the clip. Grab a good sidepull and pop for a jug. Very easy ledges lead to a couple of 8ish moves to the anchor.

Rossiter rated this 11a. I'm tempted to call it 10a, but I'll split the difference at 10c. If you're below a certain height, or if you insist on doing it statically, then it's harder.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. I used a green Alien to protect the first clip. Your can toprope the roof by walking in from the right to the 2nd bolt.



Photos of The Hanged Man Slideshow Add Photo
Mark popping off the low crux
Mark popping off the low crux
G showing his strength!
G showing his strength!
Comments on The Hanged Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One awkward move to an easy upper climb. It isn't bad enough to 'bomb' but it isn't good enough to bother with either. There are better wastes of time around. I suppose if every other route around is full, you can justify doing this one... 40' doesn't take long at least! As well, my partner referred to this as a "trad climb with bolts on it." It would take gear just fine, but at least it's not a singular and obvious crack.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 8, 2005

This route is really silly. The move at the bottom is ok, but this is one move, and it deposits you on a grassy ledge, which you then walk up a bit to some irrelevant upper moves. I really don't see why this was bolted.

Boulder the bottom move, it's not too high and the landing is fine.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2008

Climb it on gear. Double rack to #0.75 Camalot will suffice.

CL

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The first move is fun, not a bad route overall. 2 stars. I'm 5'11" and I was able to do the move semi-statically, expect more problems if you are shorter.

By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2009

This climb is done at the second bolt, that's where the rap rings should have been, or it is a boulder option with a spotter.