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The Hand of Bhudda
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 7
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dutch, '88 |
| Page Views: | 6,908 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jul 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
The Hand of Bhudda is an outstanding moderate multipitch that summits the Oyster Blade. You get to tag the summit and get an outstanding view of Phi Phi. (there is a photo of this in the Lightner guide.) The pitches are on the short side, about 80' or so each, but this takes advantage of great belay stances. The route, or the Oyster Blade in general, doesn't see much traffic You'll probably have it to yourselves.
P1: 5.10c - 130 ft. Come out of the jungle and locate the route by looking at the left side of the formation, and starting up a face to a corner formed by a giant hanging stalagtite coming off the wall. Climb up past a few threads and pass left of the stalactite. Continue up and left, passing a thin crux near the end of the pitch. There is an anchor on top of the large stalactite for another route. A few guide books suggest belaying here. The FA was not done in this manner, and it makes no sense to stop here as it is only 50 ft off the deck. Continue to the next anchor.
P2: 5.10a - 60ft. Head up and trend just right to a hand crack before moving back left into that graphite grey, super sharp, dagger rock. Easy climbing, but exposed.
P3: 5.9 - 60ft. Head straight up! The features on this pitch are crazy, there is dead coral sticking straight out of the limestone! This is the easiest pitch, but also the neatest for the features. Take care though, if you tap on the coral it sounds like you are tapping on glass. Easy climbing, but if you fall you will be julienned, and I dont' even want to think about what your rope would look like.
You can continue past the belay for P3, about 15 feet up to the summit. Straddle it and belay off the ring. Back up the old rope/webbing. You can scramble between the two summits for pictures and such.
Descent: From the 3rd (or 4th) belay, you traverse on a fixed line left to a rap anchor. Do one 25m rappel and then scramble down the jungle to the base of the wall.
There is a rap anchor in the notch between the two summits, but it takes you to a hanging belay anchor from 1987. IT'S BAD! GO DOWN FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TOWER! Stay tuned for rebolting info!
P1: 5.10c - 130 ft. Come out of the jungle and locate the route by looking at the left side of the formation, and starting up a face to a corner formed by a giant hanging stalagtite coming off the wall. Climb up past a few threads and pass left of the stalactite. Continue up and left, passing a thin crux near the end of the pitch. There is an anchor on top of the large stalactite for another route. A few guide books suggest belaying here. The FA was not done in this manner, and it makes no sense to stop here as it is only 50 ft off the deck. Continue to the next anchor.
P2: 5.10a - 60ft. Head up and trend just right to a hand crack before moving back left into that graphite grey, super sharp, dagger rock. Easy climbing, but exposed.
P3: 5.9 - 60ft. Head straight up! The features on this pitch are crazy, there is dead coral sticking straight out of the limestone! This is the easiest pitch, but also the neatest for the features. Take care though, if you tap on the coral it sounds like you are tapping on glass. Easy climbing, but if you fall you will be julienned, and I dont' even want to think about what your rope would look like.
You can continue past the belay for P3, about 15 feet up to the summit. Straddle it and belay off the ring. Back up the old rope/webbing. You can scramble between the two summits for pictures and such.
Descent: From the 3rd (or 4th) belay, you traverse on a fixed line left to a rap anchor. Do one 25m rappel and then scramble down the jungle to the base of the wall.
There is a rap anchor in the notch between the two summits, but it takes you to a hanging belay anchor from 1987. IT'S BAD! GO DOWN FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TOWER! Stay tuned for rebolting info!
Protection
Bolts. As of 2/07, every lead bolt was a Petzl stainless glue in. Every belay had one Ti bolt, and one SS glue in, with the typical Thai setup of a piece of tied rope and big steel ring. Take some slings with you to back up the rope. You may want to leave some behind, so tied slings are recommended.
You need a second rope to do the standard descent. You might be able to rap the route with a single 60m, but you might get the rope hung up.
You need a second rope to do the standard descent. You might be able to rap the route with a single 60m, but you might get the rope hung up.
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