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The Gypsy's Curse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe French and Bryan Bird
Season: Year round (north facing)
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: skeers on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The Gypsy's Curse Route Overlay.

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P1- 5.9, that starts with nice hand crack for 20 feet, up through twin hand cracks to nice ledge leading under a large boulder. anchors on top of large boulder. 3 bolt anchor with webbing

P2- 5.10 This is by far the crux pitch of the climb, and starts with fingers and ends with tight fists. (more of a arm jam) This is the endurance pitch and has small and sloppy feet, with one good rest.

P3- 5.10-. This was by far my favorite pitch. Pull a small roof out of a chimney right off the belay into a ever tightening chimney for approx 40-50 feet. The chimney accepts good pro towards the back. once you leave the chimney you come to a one bolt face climb which leads into a finger crack to the right or you can traverse the face back into a # 4-5 off width up to good 3 bolt anchor with webbing.

P4- 5.9-5.7. Need description

see Zion climbing guide by Bryan Bird for topo pg. 172


East End of Cragmont.


2 ea .4-3.5", 1 ea 4", extra 3.5 " 1 ea 5" (P4-p5)
nuts helpful, 1-60m rope

Comments on The Gypsy's Curse Add Comment
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By Danger-Russ Gordon
From: Tempe, AZ
May 5, 2013

Does anyone know if the top of the fourth pitch still needs a bolt? I'll get up there and place one if I know for sure it needs it?
By Ray Hellinger
From: Zion...for the most part
Mar 25, 2015

The 4th pitch kinda looked like junk. We didn't bother. The 2nd pitch is pretty amazing. Very enduro for its grade. 3 x #3 and #4 camalots we perfect for me (doubles of the rest). The #4s were tight, but worked. Old BD 3.5s would be ideal.
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