The G.Y. Dihedral 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Jun 12, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
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Description This is a route that is probably best avoided. Climb the first pitch of Calypso Direct (5.8) or Tagger (5.10c) to a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor. From here, head up and gradually right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb the lichen-encrusted corner with poor pro that no one ever climbs to gain the walk-off ledge. [Although Tagger is 10c, climbing the first pitch to the pine tree (start for GY) is 5.9]
Protection Standard rack.
Kat A. follows up going left past the shrub on G.Y...
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| Comments on The G.Y. Dihedral |
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By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2008
| Agreed with the lichen part. We climbed this yesterday and my partner decided to back off on the lichen encrusted corner and lead right through the notch (Tigger?).
On toprope I found this to be a reasonable 5.8. But in the crux (stemming ontop of the flake) I found it to be a bit slabby and licheny. Additionally, while you can get solid gear in under the flake, there is no gear above the critical move so its pretty unprotected.
At the top of the dihedral there is a bush to surmount adding to the adventure. All in all not a bad climb (if youre following it :-) but a hairy lead) |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.8
| This thing is such a prominent feature, yet it gets almost no traffic. I cleaned the lichen off of it years ago... and to a small degree, again today. Perhaps since it is not for the squeamish if you are only leading 5.8. You could take a big fall from the crux if your small/marginal gear there failed.
There are good holds on the arete to the left of the bush, so go left there and back. |
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