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The Gunks are way worthy!
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 18, 2012
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Ok, I'll admit it... 20 year West coast climbing snob. Never thought there was any good climbing east of the Rockies.

My wife MADE me come to the Gunks for our October trip. She said we had to at least check it out once. And the place is fricken' awesome. I stand happily corrected!

That is all.

Andy :)

ps. And yes, we only climbed during the week thus avoiding the weekend mad house.

FLAG
By mac.mcconnell
Oct 18, 2012
Don't tell everyone. Now there will be people climbing up and down the east coast in NH, WV, KY, TN, NC.

FLAG
By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 18, 2012
And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me- you can't even climb at Skytop,, a great grag

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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Oct 18, 2012
Haven't been to the gunks in years for the same reason, drive 2.5 hrs. and PAY to climb, i don't think so. I dig the fact that the money goes to the preserve and shit, but there are ALOT of climbers at the gunks ALL the time. Much rather stay in Ct, drive to Ma. or NH any time.

FLAG
By Ed Wright
Oct 18, 2012
Magic Ed
Yeah, you West coast snobs have a lot to learn. There's even excellent climbing in the Mid-west and Texas.

FLAG
By slk
From Reno, NV
Oct 18, 2012
me
oldfattradguuy says - "Without the Mohonk Preserve, the Trapps would likely be a high-end housing development or it might be owned by the state and off-limits to climbing. Although I have not been there in over 20 years, I imagine that the preserve is still doing a great job taking care of the place. Look at what the area has become (so I'm told), the preserve is an island of sanity in an area that was overcrowded over 20 years ago. "

And this is the truth, so stay in colo-rad-yo john... quit pissing on the parade.

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 18, 2012
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Yes, it is indeed rad there. A little pricey but rad. You think the Gunks are cool then you should check out some of the other Northeastern/New England areas. The ice is pretty good too.

FLAG
By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Oct 18, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
Season pass and it ain't that bad. That or go to the adk.

FLAG
 
By TheBirdman
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 18, 2012
john strand wrote:
And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me- you can't even climb at Skytop,, a great grag


Last I checked it costs money to climb in Eldo, Mt. Evans, RMNP, the Tetons, Red Rocks, Yosemite, etc...

FLAG
By Miike
From MA/CT border
Oct 18, 2012
my foot
Andy Laakmann wrote:
Ok, I'll admit it... 20 year West coast climbing snob. Never thought there was any good climbing east of the Rockies. My wife MADE me come to the Gunks for our October trip. She said we had to at least check it out once. And the place is fricken' awesome. I stand happily corrected! That is all. Andy :) ps. And yes, we only climbed during the week thus avoiding the weekend mad house.


nothing like it in the west

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By tradryan
Oct 18, 2012
Skis!
yea they are

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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Oct 18, 2012
Chapel Pond
Come to the Daks!

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 18, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
john strand wrote:
And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me-


Bam!


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By Hans
From North Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2012
I was there for two weeks in 2011 and love it. Climbed nothing but 3 star routes and didn't notice any crowds, and never waited for a climb. Never seen so many gumbies though.

The town of New Paltz was nice too. Found a great breakfast place that was cheap, and another place for dinner with 500+ beers on the menu.

Loved it, and would definitely want to go back sometime.

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Oct 18, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Awesome Andy! Now you need to head down to the Southeast and continuing diversifying your American rock resume!

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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2012
Skiing around.
TheBirdman wrote:
Last I checked it costs money to climb...Red Rocks...

Red Rock is $30/year. Not sure what an annual pass to the Mohonk Preserve is, but $30 is cheap.

FLAG
 
By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Nick Stayner wrote:
Awesome Andy! Now you need to head down to the Southeast and continuing diversifying your American rock resume!

Sooo... Andy. Have you been to the Red or TWall?

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Oct 19, 2012
john strand wrote:
And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me


One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.

FLAG
By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Oct 19, 2012
Me and Spearhead
Jon Moen wrote:
One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.


Very good point, this summer was more of a staycation because of the driving variable.

FLAG
By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Oct 19, 2012
Rumney
Jon Moen wrote:
One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.


They've upped the price 40% just in the short time I've been climbing (was $12 in 2008). Their taxes and cost to do business haven't gone up 40%. The place is a cash cow and they know it, and are hence milking it for all its worth. Mark my words -- $20 is the goal. But until people stop going they will continue to gouge. It's only when it hurts them FINANCIALLY that they'll stop raising prices. And I emphasize that because it's all about the money. Don't buy into any of the propaganda about "saving the land from development". There's no immediate threats to the preserve, they cite invisible forces at work to unhinge the cliffs from the earth. They mostly fear for their salaries (yes, people get PAID very handsomely to run the preserve).

As for gumbies, the Gunks are/were a great place to learn trad. We started doing 5.2 and 5.3s where very few places offered quality routes in the numbers the Gunks do. Once you get to 5.5 and harder the routes can actually become challenging for new leaders, but generally safe if you avoid certain ones (sandbagged, runout). IMO the sweet spot is 5.6 because there's at least a dozen super high quality routes in that grade. Some of the 5.5 routes are actually 5.6 so if you include those there's even more. There's not many 5.7 routes, though the few there are very worthy. 5.8 then becomes a very wide range of difficulty, from an extended pull up clinic on Double Crack, to easier face stuff like Arrow. Beware the infamous Gunks PLUS+. Anything with a plus demands respect.

Anyone heading there should have Mountain Project with them. With so many quality route available there's no need to climb the chossier, runout stuff. And it's easy for a 5.9 leader from elsewhere to get in over their head. Some of the 9s at the Gunks are VERY demanding. Having MP available to review comments is very handy to avoid getting in over your head or onto a climb maybe you otherwise just ought to skip. Route finding and staying on route is another challenge.

gunks.com is also a good source.

FLAG
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 19, 2012
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
Tony B wrote:
Sooo... Andy. Have you been to the Red or TWall?


Thinking they might be on next October's agenda!

Although I could come back here for another week. So much to do!

FLAG
By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Oct 19, 2012
Rumney
mohonkpreserve.org/sites/defau...

Page 16 has the financials.

Interesting to note that they spend over $300,000 a year on "communications" and "membership" expenses... ie, mailings. We get duplicates multiple times each year, whether for membership renewal or begging for more money. These mailings are not cheap to produce or distribute (postage is postage). The fact this hasn't been evaluated, and a more effective and efficiernt means of contacting their membership, or doing a cost analysis on whether those mailings even pay for themselves, is a sign of their deep pockets. Organizations struggling for cash don't waste a single mailing.

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Oct 19, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Check out NC too one day Andy. You'll shit a meat axe. Guaranteed.

FLAG
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 19, 2012
Stoked...
Hey Andy - what routes did you guys get on???

FLAG
 
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Oct 19, 2012
El Chorro
... and you haven't even seen the best climbing in the east. :)

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 19, 2012
Stoked...
Jake Jones wrote:
Check out NC too one day Andy. You'll shit a meat axe. Guaranteed.


NC is def spectacular...

FLAG


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