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 ADVANCED
Northwest Recess
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Consolation, The T 
Constellation T 
Edgehogs T 
Error, The T 
Farewell Horizontal T,S 
Gulp, The T 
Incision, The T 
Long Climb, The T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Sahara Terror T 
Snakes on Everything T 
Souvenir, The T 
Swallow, The T 
Whodunit T 
Wong Climb T 

The Gulp 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: P. Gerhard and D. Ross, 1965
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jun 20, 2010

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Description 

A variation off The Swallow. If you don't want to get Swallowed whole by the wide crack then head left onto The Gulp. This crack is fairly steep and on the wide side but is no offwidth. This pitch has a great photo on The Swallow route info. It veers off left halfway between 1 and 2 on that photo (after a traverse left). The crack leans left a little in that photo.

Location 

The line starts up The Swallow. At the base of the wide crack head up and left to a crack of reasonable width. We followed this until it joined Whodunnit not far above the chimney crux. A great way to pass somebody starting on Whodunnit. The Swallow begins up easy ground that gets progressively steeper between Whodunnit and Consolation.

Protection 

Standard rack. The actual gulp pitch takes cams in the 3" range.


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By Tradoholic
Nov 12, 2014

I linked this to the bolted belay that both Edgehogs and Magical Mystery Tour share. I attempted to finish on MMT but the 10a pitch as indicated in the book looked like a lichen filled shit show so I went right somewhere between that and Edgehogs at about 5.7, not on the topo in the Vogel book.