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The Guillotine

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annie's Overhang T,TR 
Barefoot Crack T 
Beginner's Chimney T,TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Beginner's Nose TR 
Broken Boulders T,TR 
Broken Boulders Variation TR 
Corner TR 
Corner, The TR 
Labor Pains T 
Layback , The T,TR 
Levitation T 
Levitation Right Side T,TR 
Pike, The T,TR 
Rhus Toxicodendron Radicans T 

The Guillotine 


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Page Views: 6,326
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Apr 16, 2002
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Description 

The Guillotine and the Guillotine Wall are two smaller formations found at the east end of the East Rampart, above the No Sweat area. This area has lots of short and easy climbs, as well as a few nice routes of moderate difficulty.

Because it has easy access, easy routes, and is separate from the main East Rampart scene, it is popular for climbing classes and groups of beginners. It tends to either be full of people, or empty.

The area is also good for linking up multi-pitch routes of three or even four small pitches, starting from the CCC Trail below No Sweat and ending east of D'Arcy's Buttress.


Getting There 

Hike up the CCC Trail. Pass the No Sweat formation, and hike up along the talus field until you reach a wall. This is the Flatiron and the Monster. Turn right at the Flatiron and walk about 100 feet. Angle up and you will find the Guillotine. Angle down and you will reach the Guillotine Wall.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Guillotine:
Broken Boulders   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Barefoot Crack   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Beginner's Face   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
The Layback    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Levitation   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 40'   
Browse More Classics in The Guillotine

Featured Route For The Guillotine
Climb the face, not the corners

The Pike 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : The Guillotine
#52 on page 99 of Climbers Guide to Devils Lake. Described as: "Narrow face with small holds". Everyone agreed this was a 5.8+++, it's harder than most Devils Lake 5.8s. Do not use either corners of the face or you are off route. It's a bare climb with small holds, two ledges to rest on, nothing more.I named it The Pike as it's part of The Guillotine, and what's left to do with a decapitated head? Put it on The Pike....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on The Guillotine Add Comment
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By James
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 28, 2009

To find the Guillotine Wall turn right at the Monster (as Tom indicated above) but angle down to the right just before you reach the Guillotine.