Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Side
Select Route:
Bombelay T 
Captain Kangaroo T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 

The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Brown (rope solo with some aid)
Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is quite a varied route that has recently been extended all the way to the peregrine roof. I re-configured it into 2 pitches to prevent rope drag. It also makes P-1 doable for anyone scared by the guillotine flake above.

P-1
Climb the short corner to a bolt out right. Continue up and right through funky corners to a thin face. Bolts and small cams protect the face to a hard mantel at the 5th bolt. A new belay was added at the 6th bolt location under the guillotine flake to break the route into 2 pitches.

P-2
From here, move up the face to the giant guillotine flake and get gear behind it on the right side (T.S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer). Move out right and through the roof with a hidden #4 camelot just above (can be placed from below). Climb the corner past 2 pins to a bolt at the end of the corner. From here the route continues up an excellent thin face on small crimps. Some weaving back and forth will make this easier but it's still quite thin. There are options for several small cams (#0-#1 tcu) on the face to supplement the bolts. Belay on bolts at the Peregrine roof/ledge.

You can rap with one 70m, which will just barely get you down. Otherwise swing left to the P-1 anchors.

Location 

Just to the right of The "Glass I". Crosses over the diagonaling first pitch of "Chieftains Of Creep" at the Guillotine Flake and extending to the peregrine roof.

Protection 

no stoppers, but a rack of cams up to #1, plus one #4 camelot for the roof move. Optional #2 or #3 for below the roof. The upper face only requires from purple - yellow tcu's.


Comments on The Guillotine Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Sep 11, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Rout was recently extended all the way to the Peregrine roof in 2 pitches. The upper pitch is way fun if you're into thin edging high off the ground. See updated description for details.