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North Face
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The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Allen Steck and Chuck Wilts, October 1969
Page Views: 2,545
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: The Guillotine (5.8 R) climbs the thin flakes dire...

Description 

Some fun, easy liebacking on large, sharp flakes (including the guillotine flake) takes you up a right-facing corner. Climb up into a short, well-protected squeeze chimney (crux) and struggle up to a comfortable belay. Runout but easy (5.5) friction moves take you to the top of the rock. Walk off to the right. Some people have avoided the squeeze chimney by a committing, very runout lieback. Done this way, the climb deserves an "R."

Protection 

standard rack with a few larger pieces


Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
120 foot rap from the bolts....
120 foot rap from the bolts....
Tom Michael leads the Guillotine.
Tom Michael leads the Guillotine.

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By Adam Kimmerly
May 26, 2009

Super fun liebacking that I don't feel is as dangerous as the guidebook suggests. I plugged a #3 in the base of the chimney before committing to the "runout" lieback which is really only about 15'-20' before the next piece. I'll downgrade the danger rating on this one to a PG-13. While you can't place gear at every point on the route, I feel the available placements adequately protect the route. Regardless, this wouldn't be a good first 5.8 for a budding leader.
By Nikki Schnupp
From: Hudson, Ohio
Feb 20, 2013

Fun liebacking--and good varied climbing the whole way. Doesn't feel run out. Not plentiful pro--but sufficient. Rapped with a 70m from the slung tree (or bolts?--can't remember)at the top.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 10, 2014

Watched some guy take a big whip on this climb years and years ago. He swung right into the flake. Don't know the extent of his injuries but he was messed up. My partner Todd and I ran and got the litter. Glad there were a bunch of other folks there to do first aid. And we all helped with a carry out.