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 ADVANCED
The Guardian

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route T 
Serpentine Son Rise (AKA The Sunrise) T 
Theory of the Leisure Class  T 
Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face) T 

The Guardian  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,600'
Location: 37.6624, -107.5407 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,225
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nic Harnish on Aug 17, 2010  with updates from Jay Bach
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Views from the basin below the NE Face.

Description 

The Guardian is the easternmost peak in the Grenadiers. The circa 1700 foot North East Face offers superb, technical, quartzite climbing. So far I have not found any information for any previous technical ascents of the peak, so I imagine if there are there are very few. Negotiating the southern aspects are the best bet for descent (if you're willing to leave gear possibly the E ridge). Surprisingly good, quartzsite rock climbing awaits.

Getting There 

From Silverton, Co drive up and over Stony Pass until you reach junction that has a sign that says 40 miles to Creede or 6 to Kite Lake. Go to Kite Lake. A half mile before the actual Kite Lake there is a trail head for Hunchback Pass which leads to the Vallecito Creek Trail. Go over Hunchback Pass and down into the valley. Hike another mile or so, the Guardian's North Face looms above more prominent than anything else to the west. Cross the creek near a waterfall over a grouping of downed timber and head directly up the sparsely forested slope to the basin diectly below the North Face. From the trailhead to basin is only about 4.5 miles. There is a running creek in the basin.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.6 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Guardian
A Prayer to Earl and Valerie.

A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Guardian
John Joline was a jubilant, one-of-a-kind teacher who taught hundreds of climbers how to place their first cam. His love of the sport was infused into all aspects of his life, and inspired many to seek summits, large and small, across the world. John had a special place in his heart for the Grenadiers. So when he passed of cancer in 2015, we decided to put up this route in his honor. It's a lovely line in a high and lonely place, with 5 pitches of 5.8-5.9 capped by ~500 hundred feet of sustained...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Guardian Slideshow Add Photo
Stormy Creek on the way up.... This is the base of...
Stormy Creek on the way up.... This is the base of...
The 1700 foot NE Face of The Guardian.
The 1700 foot NE Face of The Guardian.

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