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The Guardian

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A Prayer to Earl and Valerie: The John Joline Memorial Route T 
Serpentine Son Rise (AKA The Sunrise) T 
Theory of the Leisure Class  T 
Weather Window Waltz (The Guardian NE Face) T 

The Guardian Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,600'
Location: 37.6624, -107.5407 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,265
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nic Harnish on Aug 17, 2010  with updates from Jay Bach
Thanksgiving Day

22° | 14°

24° | 16°

23° | 13°

22° | 7°

20° | 9°

27° | 12°
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Views from the basin below the NE Face.


The Guardian is the easternmost peak in the Grenadiers. The circa 1700 foot North East Face offers superb, technical, quartzite climbing. So far I have not found any information for any previous technical ascents of the peak, so I imagine if there are there are very few. Negotiating the southern aspects are the best bet for descent (if you're willing to leave gear possibly the E ridge). Surprisingly good, quartzsite rock climbing awaits.

Getting There 

From Silverton, Co drive up and over Stony Pass until you reach junction that has a sign that says 40 miles to Creede or 6 to Kite Lake. Go to Kite Lake. A half mile before the actual Kite Lake there is a trail head for Hunchback Pass which leads to the Vallecito Creek Trail. Go over Hunchback Pass and down into the valley. Hike another mile or so, the Guardian's North Face looms above more prominent than anything else to the west. Cross the creek near a waterfall over a grouping of downed timber and head directly up the sparsely forested slope to the basin diectly below the North Face. From the trailhead to basin is only about 4.5 miles. There is a running creek in the basin.

Climbing Season

Weather station 11.6 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Guardian
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo.

Theory of the Leisure Class 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Guardian
Theory of the Leisure Class is a directissima climbing a large dihedral and prominent buttress on the Guardian's northeast face. If it were in the Front Range, it'd be a trade route, so while we're claiming the FA, I would not be surprised to learn some 1940s hard man picked this plum and just kept it to himself. Cheers to you, theoretical hobnailed tough guy, this climb is awesome. Expect some loose rock from kitty litter to microwave-size death blocks, because, duh, you're in the alpine. Overa...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Guardian Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stormy Creek on the way up.... This is the base of...
Stormy Creek on the way up.... This is the base of...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 1700 foot NE Face of The Guardian.
The 1700 foot NE Face of The Guardian.

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