|Photos:||Recent | Best | Popular|
|Administrators:||andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||John Knight on Jun 22, 2010|
|re: seeking Tuolumne climbing partners July 2-10||Ian Cappelle||3 hours ago|
|re: Bear Creek Spire weekend conditions inquiry||MacM||5 hours ago|
|re: Ride to any climbing spot in California within the next 2 days||Christine Shiba||6 hours ago|
|re: Looking for new (outdoor) climbing buddies in South Bay / Penninsula||Lane Daniels||7 hours ago|
|re: Stockton a good place to live as a climber?||bobdelon||8 hours ago|
|re: how to get a map to bouldering locations?||Daniel Siegel||9 hours ago|
|re: bivy spot near bridgeport||splitclimber||2 days ago|
|re: Sierra or Northern California climbing partner 7/2-7/5+||kili||2 days ago|
|Comments on The Grotto||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Knight
Jun 22, 2010
From 1980 to 1990 Pete Gulyash teamed with a variety of partners and added a significant amount of interesting climbs to Bishop Peak. Many of the climbs he added became classics like "Camel" and"Lama" on Cracked Wall and "Desperado" on Shadow Wall.
In 1990 Pete teamed up with Ed Keefe to see if they could find a place with a few interesting "beginner climbs". At that time, the fastest way to get to the summit blocks was to head up to the far right side of P-Wall then work your way up one of the gullys to the top. On his way to the summit blocks, Pete would pass an interesting looking, low-angle wall and figured it might offer a few easy climbs. He came back one day with Ed Keefe and put up two new routes on "The Grotto". Pete & Ed bolted by hand the left side and named it "Grotto" (5.6 PG) and on the right side they put up "Avoidance". They came up with the name "Avoidance" since you had to "avoid" the corner and "avoid" the poison oak at the base in order to climb it. In 1990, they put in 2 lead bolts on "Avoidance" (but they have since been pulled and not replaced). Pete told me he actually went back to put in a 3rd bolt on "Avoidance" but gave up after a mild attack of carpal tunnel syndrome.
In 2010 I pulled all the bolts and replaced the lead bolts and anchor for "Grotto". I have not yet replaced the lead bolts on "Avoidance".
Although unknown at the time, by climbing "Grotto" you can easily access the base of "Sunnyside" and work your way up to the summit blocks. Simply work your way left 30 +/- yards after making it to the "Grotto" anchors.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.