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The Grotto

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Avoidance 
Grotto 

The Grotto 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: John Knight on Jun 22, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The Grotto area is shown in red.

Description 

The Grotto is a secluded area that is seldom visited by climbers. The rock faces north and is in the shade most of the year. The rock is a bit lichen covered but is relatively solid. Climbing on The Grotto is similar to the climbing at Garden Wall. There are two 5.6 climbs on The Grotto. After leading, "Grotto" (5.6 PG), you can easily access the base of "Sunnyside" (5.9) and make your way to the summit blocks. If you've been everywhere else, you might want to check out The Grotto. Note - lead and anchor bolts replaced in 2010.


Getting There 

To get to The Grotto, take the P-Wall access trail and turn right when you bump into P-Wall. Scramble up through the notch between P-Wall and the P-Wall Pinnacle and continue up and right (past "Dark Side") till you finally reach the base of The Grotto. You will pass two chimney/gullys on your left.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Grotto

Grotto 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13  CA : Central Coast : ... : The Grotto
The "Grotto" is located on the left side of the wall. Most of the route is 5.5 or easier with a couple of 5.6 moves. The "crux" comes just after you clip the 3rd bolt. Step up to clip the bolt then move up and slightly left of the overhang. For an easier time, clip the 3rd bolt then move right. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For The Grotto
Photos of The Grotto Slideshow Add Photo
"Grotto" (5.6 PG) is a 3 bolt lead located on the left side of the wall. "Avoidance" (5.6) is a top rope located on the right side.
BETA PHOTO: "Grotto" (5.6 PG) is a 3 bolt lead located on the ...
Photo Topo showing "Grotto" (5.6 PG) and "Avoidance" (5.6) TR.
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo showing "Grotto" (5.6 PG) and "Avoidanc...
Comments on The Grotto Add Comment
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By John Knight
Jun 22, 2010

From 1980 to 1990 Pete Gulyash teamed with a variety of partners and added a significant amount of interesting climbs to Bishop Peak. Many of the climbs he added became classics like "Camel" and"Lama" on Cracked Wall and "Desperado" on Shadow Wall.

In 1990 Pete teamed up with Ed Keefe to see if they could find a place with a few interesting "beginner climbs". At that time, the fastest way to get to the summit blocks was to head up to the far right side of P-Wall then work your way up one of the gullys to the top. On his way to the summit blocks, Pete would pass an interesting looking, low-angle wall and figured it might offer a few easy climbs. He came back one day with Ed Keefe and put up two new routes on "The Grotto". Pete & Ed bolted by hand the left side and named it "Grotto" (5.6 PG) and on the right side they put up "Avoidance". They came up with the name "Avoidance" since you had to "avoid" the corner and "avoid" the poison oak at the base in order to climb it. In 1990, they put in 2 lead bolts on "Avoidance" (but they have since been pulled and not replaced). Pete told me he actually went back to put in a 3rd bolt on "Avoidance" but gave up after a mild attack of carpal tunnel syndrome.

In 2010 I pulled all the bolts and replaced the lead bolts and anchor for "Grotto". I have not yet replaced the lead bolts on "Avoidance".

Although unknown at the time, by climbing "Grotto" you can easily access the base of "Sunnyside" and work your way up to the summit blocks. Simply work your way left 30 +/- yards after making it to the "Grotto" anchors.