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The Grotto is one of the most alien places I've ever seen (alongside Joshua Tree)! You're in a 30-foot deep pit, surrounded by climbing. The main wall is columnar basalt until it gets to the surrounding ground level, then becomes more featured and very overhung above ground.The area is also a lot cooler due to its location, and doesn't see much sun. The lower part of the wall has mainly trad climbs, though a few bolted routes like the classic AC Devil Dog are present too. The upper wall is all sport and is mostly very difficult. It can only be reached by climbing the lower routes first.
Approach time: 20 - 25 minutes.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grotto:
Table Manners 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Bandito 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Granted 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Go with the Flow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Hole in the Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Three Fingered Jack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Chicken Ranch Bingo 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Rawhide 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
AC Devil Dog 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Table Manners - Left 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
To Pin or Not To Be 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Snake Bite 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Squealer 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Men's Crisis Center 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Flight Simulator 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Grotto
Flight Simulator 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b CA : Central Sierra : ... : The Grotto
Using the top anchor for A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d) and Table Manners (5.8), there is a bolt just right of this top anchor nearly directly above A.C. Devil Dog, which leads straight up the severly overhung upper headwall of the Grotto. This is Flight Simulator. Climb up large jugs for the first three bolts on hellaciously overhung but really solid rock. For the final two bolts and to the top anchors, climbing gets balancy and remains powerful. All moves are pumpy, all moves are excellent.A Fall i...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for The Grotto