Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Grotto

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AC Devil Dog S 
Bandito T,TR 
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 
Flight Simulator S 
Go with the Flow T 
Granted T 
Gyro Gearloose T,TR 
Hole in the Wall T,TR 
Journey to Find the Sun S 
Men's Crisis Center T,S 
Moss Critique S 
Prime Directive S 
Rawhide T,TR 
Snake Bite T,TR 
Squealer T,S 
Table Manners T,TR 
Table Manners - Left T,TR 
Three Fingered Jack T 
To Pin or Not To Be T,S 

The Grotto 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.926, -120.4635 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,863
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Clear
103° | 70°
Clear
105° | 69°
Clear
103° | 70°
Partly Cloudy
99° | 67°
Clear
97° | 67°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Grotto
Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Grotto is one of the most alien places I've ever seen (alongside Joshua Tree)! You're in a 30-foot deep pit, surrounded by climbing. The main wall is columnar basalt until it gets to the surrounding ground level, then becomes more featured and very overhung above ground.The area is also a lot cooler due to its location, and doesn't see much sun. The lower part of the wall has mainly trad climbs, though a few bolted routes like the classic AC Devil Dog are present too. The upper wall is all sport and is mostly very difficult. It can only be reached by climbing the lower routes first.


Getting There 

Approach time: 20 - 25 minutes.

From the Welcome Wall, simply continue left another 2 minutes on the trail. You'll go down a steep trail between some rocks, and you will see the columnar Grotto in front of you on the right, the Ort Wall on the left, and The Cave Routes ahead and left.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grotto:
Table Manners   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Bandito   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Granted   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Go with the Flow   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hole in the Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Three Fingered Jack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chicken Ranch Bingo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rawhide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
AC Devil Dog   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Table Manners - Left   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
To Pin or Not To Be   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Snake Bite   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Squealer   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Men's Crisis Center   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Flight Simulator   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in The Grotto

Featured Route For The Grotto
Somewhere on Flight Simulator, Aron pulls onward.

Flight Simulator 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Central Sierra : ... : The Grotto
Using the top anchor for A.C. Devil Dog (5.10d) and Table Manners (5.8), there is a bolt just right of this top anchor nearly directly above A.C. Devil Dog, which leads straight up the severly overhung upper headwall of the Grotto. This is Flight Simulator. Climb up large jugs for the first three bolts on hellaciously overhung but really solid rock. For the final two bolts and to the top anchors, climbing gets balancy and remains powerful. All moves are pumpy, all moves are excellent.A Fall i...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on The Grotto Add Comment
Show which comments
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 23, 2011

Although the climbing is excellent, it is worth noting that the grotto reeks of (rodent? bat?) excrement, and is mobbed on weekends.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 28, 2012

Better (sport) climbing is to be had at the nearby Gold Wall. You catch a trail closer to the final entrance gate and then bear left on the trail at the fork to gain the base of the crag. Follow the crowds, you can't go wrong ;). But the dumb asses pretending there isn't a weekend gang bang of the area in effect already still don't want this info published?

Too bad, community discussion of the area and appropriate behavior would be more helpful since only those who need a new set of glasses can't see the cat has been out of the bag on that high quality 5.10-13 sport area for about a decade now. Watch your step if you go, you will literally be tripping over hordes of people on the weekend while visiting the worst kept "secret" in NorCal.

At this point, the private property argument holds no water since you literally couldn't fit more people into this area. Everybody who would go there, does already. I will leave it to admins to remove this comment if they deem it necessary, since I will not.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 27, 2013

Grotto routes sorted left to right (Columns and Upper Headwall)

Prime Directive 5.10c R
Granted 5.9
Hole in the Wall 5.10a
Three Fingered Jack 5.10b
Snake Bite 5.11b
Gyro Gearloose 5.10c
Rawhide 5.10d
Men's Crisis Center 5.12a
Table Manners - Left 5.11a
Table Manners 5.8
AC Devil Dog 5.10d
Bandito 5.8
To Pin or Not To Be
Moss Critique
Go with the Flow 5.9
Flight Simulator 5.12b
Journey to Find the Sun 5.12a
Squealer 5.11c
Chicken Ranch Bingo 5.10b


The Cave routes sorted left to right:

Grotto Monkey 5.12a
Dwarf Toss 5.11d

By Marcus D
Apr 11, 2014

the dude with the tie-dye shirt that climbed the grotto a couple weekends ago, you were looking for someone to get you into trad climbing, (530) 945-6577 Marcus