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DescriptionThe Grotto is the premium area to climb in Diablo Canyon. It is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (for NM) vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping The Grotto shady for most of the day. The sun peeks through both ends of the canyon during the early morning and late afternoon respectively. However, during January, February, and March an unseasonably warm day is necessary for comfortable climbing. Getting ThereFollow the new trail (fall 2012) to The Runway. From The Runway, hike easy terrain west to the Grotto. The new trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grotto (AKA: The Notch):
Class Act 5.10a/b Sport Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Waiting to Procrastinate 5.10b Sport Lower Grotto
Good 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Lower Grotto
Evil Paradise 5.10c Sport, 80 feet Evil Paradise Area
Bong Crack (aka Surficial Scratch) 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Evil 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Lower Grotto
Bergers Bakeshop 5.10d Sport Lower Grotto
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo 5.10d Sport, 90 feet Evil Paradise Area
Guillotine Crack 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Upper Tier of The Grotto
Affirmative Action 5.11a Sport Lower Grotto
Woogie's Wild Ride 5.11b Sport, 90 feet Right Side of Grotto Entran...
Where the Wild Things Aren't 5.11c Sport Grotto End (R. Side)
Bedeviled 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lower Grotto
Bush in a Blender 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lower Grotto
Trailer Park Girls 5.12b Sport Grotto End (R. Side)
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Grotto End (R. Side)
Venarete 5.12b Sport, 75 feet Venarete Area
Muscle Crow 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lower Grotto
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" 5.13- Sport, 85 feet Venarete Area
Featured Route For The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)
Prescribed Burn 5.11a/b NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Grotto End (L. Side)
Located at the far (south) end of the Grotto's left side are two enjoyable routes with nice position. Prescribed Burn is the left route of the two. Access the base of the route via a short fourth class scramble up the small ridge below the route or hike around the ridge and back up. From the belay platform, edge out left and up to clip the first bolt in a green, lichen-covered face. Side pull your way up to the big, comfy ledge. From the big ledge, climb cracks up and left past the second bolt ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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