The Groove 

This follows a crack/corner. There are pretty big dikes which you mantle. Some strectchy moves. Bolts at top of first pitch. Second pitch is short and real easy but little to no protection.

Gear up the Mid size c-4's

A great route and a fun free-solo!

I don't think I'd call the pro on this pg13, it's pretty good. all the moves on p1 are protectable, and p2 is super easy (and still has some pro.)

Not as good as surrealistic pillar, but still a very fun climb.

The first move is 10-something if you do the obvious and jam it. Fortunately, after some consultation with ground control, I figured out the easier way. I have some sympathy with the "dike and hike" comment above. Although I enjoyed the route, I found myself getting a little annoyed at having to do the same move over and over: feet and hands on big dike, but crack more or less useless and the right wall concave. I typically would lean way left off the crack, palm the left wall, smear the right wall, high step onto the high dike, and then struggle to rock onto it. The much easier second pitch is worth doing if only for the view of the main wall above. We had never been up there, and it was a gorgeous fall day.

The rating on this route seems a little bit dependent on height. The start was definitely easier for my 6' partner as he was able to make the initial move straight on and hit the big jam up high directly as he smeared up in one move, thus allowing him to put his foot in the giant pod with a secure hand jam. At 5'6", I had to do two tenuous smearing moves in a left layback position off the ground, shift my balance straight, then gaston the two slopey edges of the wide pod (effortful) in order to hike one foot up into it before I could stand up and reach that jam. Kinda hard! A spotter is a nice thing to have in such case.

The rest of the route is quite well protected.

Couple things about starting this route...

It may be that it is more difficult if you are short. It is one move of 5.8 for me at 5'10", then the rest of the climb is 5.7 or easier.

However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent.

Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. I did this years ago in my beginner days. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.

hmm, just did it again the other day. because of the sloping ground at the start, you can lean in from uphill and slot the cam if you wish. It was around chest height for me from up there.

Single 60 m rope just long enough to bail from the P1 bolts. Supertopo says the bolts are 120' off the deck which is probably not correct. I'd say closer to 98' as both ends of the rope barely make it to the ground.

Agree with other posts on the importance of placing a piece from the ground to protect the first two moves and that I often found myself lying back off the left side of the crack.

Bring a bunch of small pro. You'll need it.

BTW - I'm tired of all the short guy whining! Y'all will make it up just fine :)

Whoa, daniel, I am neither short nor whining. Wtf.

I realize now that c.i. and I are talking about different placements. Yes, I can reach the one he refers to, but it's not really high enough to keep you from hitting the rocks below, plus I wanted to put my fingers there, not gear. I'm referring to the #1 jam up higher, which is where my partner could put a cam (but I couldn't).

Tried the move unroped in my approach shoes the other day with a straight-on gaston off the pod, and it felt much easier than before, no laybacking required. I wasn't in as good shape two months ago, plus it was my last route to lead for the day then and I was tired.

However, the rating off the ground still remains a bit height dependent imo.

First half of p1 has a lot of 5.8 moves, in between huge, hands-free rests. The crux 5.8 move is definitely off the ground and it is not that far away from a huge jug, 10 feet up.

Second pitch is definitely "R" rated, but the climbing is super easy 4th and 5th class and maybe one, 5.6'ish move just above the belay.

I'm 5'10" and have a hard time with the first move -- for whatever reason I pretty much have to lieback it. Five years ago I followed it and had the damndest time until I did that.

When I led it today I reached up and placed a yellow (#2) C3 before leaving the ground and that gave me peace of mind enough to pull the lieback. YMMV

I feel like admins should leave their personal thoughts for the comment board and keep the route description objective!

Fun moves, great free solo.

I found this route pretty fun. I don't get all the griping about mantling--I got into a pretty good and easy rhythm of mantling on the dikes. Lots of no hands stances to place gear.

I guess if you're looking for a straight in crack climb, yeah, you'll be disappointed. I think you'll be disappointed by a lot of the routes at the Leap!

Don't let the second pitch intimidate you, yeah it's runout, but if you got through the first pitch OK then all the moves will be super easy for you. Good mental training for something a little spicier like Surrealistic Pillar.

(beta alert!) I'm 5'8" and if you find the foothold for the left foot on the face, the start is 5.8. I didn't find it the first time I pulled up into that slot.

There were 3 or 4 mantles on the first pitch that were way more heads up than anything on the 2nd pitch which seemed really casual.
This route was way better than I expected.

P1 was the only really worth pitch. Kind of tricky getting off the ground, but very straight forward afterwards.

On-sight free-solo. Solid 5.8 exposed move up high.

^^^ uh oh, more needless bragging! Call the MP police!