Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 9,173 total · 43/month |
Shared By: | Greg Gibson on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
If you idea of a good time is dike hike'n, this is a great route.
P1 (120 ft): The first move getting off the ground is the crux. From here, follow the crack in the groove all the way to the anchor. The left facing slightly diagonal crack (fingers to thin hands) within the groove is more for balance as you climb from dike to dike. There are many dike mantle moves.
P2 (120 ft): Immediately from the anchor, the easiest path is slightly to the right where the distance between the next two dikes is shortest. Mantle onto the dike. From here, the dike hike gets easier. Choose your own adventure up dikes to the top. You can find the occasional place for protection, but it is mostly run out.
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