The Grendel looms over the surrounding area from high on the ridge, behind and above Squaw Spire. This crag has highly featured, weathered alpine granite and has yielded several quality sport climbs. From below, it looks bigger than it turns out to be, yet a 70 meter rope is recommended as several of the routes go the distance.
Park in the Aspen Meadows campground, and walk back out the entry road. Cross Gap Road and enter the woods directly across from and in line with the campground entry road. Once you encounter the powerline road in the woods, look for cairns marking an old road heading into the forest. Follow old roads, keeping an eye out for cairns, until you find your way up the hill to the saddle area surrounding The Squaw. Follow cairns up the hillside below The Grendel to the crag. The approach takes about 45 minutes.
Eds. Please note that after discussion with GGCSP, the Grendel appears to be within Golden Gate Canyon State Park and thus is subject to its regulations. Hence, any new fixed hardware requires Park approval. However, further investigation of park boundaries could impact this. Thank you.
11 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Grendel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grendel:
Beyond the Pale 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Mother Grendel 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Daneland 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Leitner Route 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Beowulf 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Pierced Lip Lock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Strong Arm Tactics 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Pebble In The Sky 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Grendel
Pierced Lip Lock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Golden : ... : The Grendel
This route stands out for me as the best at the cliff: fun, sustained climbing on great rock in a beautiful setting, requiring a variety of techniques. Easy climbing leads past the first bolt into a steep dihedral capped by roofs. Tread lightly at the pierced lip and try not to break it or we'll have to rename the route "Busted Lip"....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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