The Green Zone
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BETA PHOTO: Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Ad...
You are not in The Green Zone in Baghdad but you may feel you have been in a fire fight after you climb this one. The right side of the Eiger continues to yeild excellent long routes. The Green Zone is a monster sport route, take 18 draws! Start 15 feet right of "The Naked Hedge" in a surf curl.
Crank past four bolts through the overhang, pump over the lip and then friction past two more bolts, 5.10c/d. The climb eases for two clips up to the small corner. Delicate and steep moves up the corner on 5.10 will get you to the 5.11a crux. Power through the steep tricky face, 95 degrees, past two bolts and then fire for a hidden jug over the lip. Continue to the top on 5.9+. A 60 meter rope [will not get you down, even with rope stretch]. We used a 70 and had 12 feet of extra rope laying on the ground.
Mike Bronson contributed much to this effort by finding the most creative path through the first crux. The start was dirty and loose. Mike sent a 60 pounder to the shoulder of US 6. The climb cleaned up nicely and with a few ascents the lichen will go. I scrubbed for hours already, so don't complain too much if you do the second ascent.
16 bolts plus a two bolt anchor!
Angus on first roof of The Green Zone. Long slings...
Bye bye, jacket.
Francisco at the crux on The Green Zone.
|Comments on The Green Zone
|By micah stocker|
Jul 2, 2005
Outstanding, one of my first routes back since knee reconstruction. Great Line
|By Thor Kieser|
Jul 9, 2005
I forgot to mention that you will need to bring two long runners for the second and third bolts. If you do not use long runners you will have huge rope drag at the top.
Also, I have decided to downgrade the route to 5.11a. After climbing it a few times and listening to others, I feel 11a is a more accurate grade.
Jul 14, 2005
Excellent route. Sustained and pumpy, but with salvation holds when you need them. Don't let the crux intimidate you - the jug is up there waiting for you if you don't give up on the thin part. Take heed of Thor's recommendation to put longer runners on the initial bolts under the first roof. That rope drag isn't fun on the crux. I have to express my thanks to Thor and others for putting in these new routes. They are a great addition to this wall. One thing I'd recommend though is spray painting the hangers on the arete climbs - those bolts are way obvious from the road. Given all the talk about a climbing management plan for the canyon, stealth is advisable.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 14, 2005
The bolts should be spray painted BEFORE installation, so just be careful now that they are in place so the rock isn't painted. Thanks.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Sep 11, 2005
I think it's easiest to skip the first bolt (a spot is more than sufficient to protect the one thin move before jugs) and just bump one quick draw up the 2nd, 3rd, and leave it at the 4th.
|By T. Kieser|
May 26, 2006
Gauging from the amount of chalk lots of people are climbing around the crux to the left in an easy crack. The route goes right of the clip at the lip on thin pumpy overhanging face. If you go left to the crack, you have not done the route as originally intended.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2006
You can also go with the bolt at your right shoulder in an interesting opposition and stem sequence that is probably a little harder that to the right.
Decent line that is quite long and draws its merit from that, mostly. These 35m lines are always a plus, from my perspective, as I like long pitches.
The line and bolts wander around a little, so a rack of slings and draws were handy to have- various lengths placed allowed me to have a more or less straight rope and virtually no drag the whole way.
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Estes Park
Aug 27, 2009
What Thor said. Bring extenders for the 2nd and 3rd bolts, otherwise you'll be fighting drag at the crucial, 11a moment. While you're at it, skip bolt #5 (the one AFTER the heinous roof) for the same reason. #6 is very close at hand, and it's only a handful of 5.7 moves to get there.
For that matter, skip the first bolt--it's about useless and makes for horrendous drag. If you're leading 11a, then moving through the 5.8 sequence to hit the second bolt should be no prob. Besides, clipping the first bolt means you belayer is either a) too close under the roof (to avoid being pulled laterally) to watch the leader effectively, or else s/he gets yanked off their feet because s/he's leaning way back to watch when you pop at the crux.
The opening roof movements, by the way, are 10 meters of pure joy. For extra spice points: DON'T clip the THANKGOD fourth bolt until you get both mitts up and your right, INSIDE leg heel hookin' on the jug. Let the left leg fly for style points, and harvest your well-earned OOOhhhhss and AAAaahhhhhsss....
Oh. And? My first ever, 11a onsight. Yea, me. (Anybody else suspect this might only be a double crux 10d in disguise? It'd be my first ever 11 onsite, so just checkin'.)
Last hint: don't go plunging for the huge jugs above the crux if'n it's just rained. Go for tips or one-knuckle deep instead, lest you want to go swimming....
|By robbie s|
Sep 24, 2012
I got the onsight the other day on this route, awesome climb, and feels solid at the 11 grade... A heel hook plus a high step were key to saving energy going into the crux for me.... I didn't put long draws on the bottom bolts... but felt the drag for sure..., Fun climb....