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Turk's Head
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A Point of Balance T,TR 
Belly Flop T 
Green Slime, The T,TR 
Turk's Head T,TR 
Turk's Head Ridge T 
Turks Tooth T,TR 
Zor the Mantle T,TR 

The Green Slime 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ????
Season: Spring, Summer,Fall (mild Winter)
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 14, 2007

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Andrew on "The Green Slime"

Description 

Nice 5.10 splitter crack that runs up the middle of just off vertical green colored face. Lots of green colored lichens either side of the crack but doesn't effect the climbing one bit. Crux is right at mid-point where crack shoots straight up and becomes smaller (small fingers) and slightly flaring. There is a nice face hold just left of the crack edge that helps to reach past the flared portion and to reach a great right hand ring finger lock with a just barely usable opposing thumb push (makes the lock a bit more solid). There are two possible finishes- one tops out on ledge to left at top, the other climbs through steep crack and broken rock to higher ledge over to right. The right hand finish makes the climb longer and more fun.


Location 

Located on steep face down below western exposure of Turks Tooth


Protection 

Except for the first 10-12 feet (pro is smaller and more marginal here) the whole climb protects beautifully and bomber with wired stoppers, tricams, and TCUs or cams (all in small to large finger size).



Photos of The Green Slime Slideshow Add Photo
Burt, just starting the crux.
Burt, just starting the crux.
Michael Sullivan
Michael Sullivan
Chris, and the sweep of "Green Slime"
BETA PHOTO: Chris, and the sweep of "Green Slime"
Burt pauses to look for his next pro.
Burt pauses to look for his next pro.
Jerry getting ready to pull the crux of "The Green Slime"
Jerry getting ready to pull the crux of "The Green...
Jon J. on his first ascent of The Green Slime ever!
Jon J. on his first ascent of The Green Slime ever...
Josh on "The Green Slime"
Josh on "The Green Slime"
Chris, back for a second helping of Slime.
Chris, back for a second helping of Slime.
Blair
Blair
A view of the whole crack.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the whole crack.
Erin H's introduction to the fine finger jamming of The Green Slime. She pulled this off between funky but brief snow showers!
Erin H's introduction to the fine finger jamming o...
Comments on The Green Slime Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 4, 2009

Another "only at the Lake" - a finger crack that is very technical, balance-y, and sequence-y, in that Devils Lake way. Got it on my first try ... but then blew the sequence when I went back for a second lap!

By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Sep 29, 2009

Another way to locate this is by climbing Turks Head Ridge - this is right around the corner on P5, the 40 foot inside corner. Goes to show that you can do Turks Head Ridge at a more committing grade.

By Tradoholic
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Money pitch for the area! Soaks gear up and includes interesting finger locks.

An easier approach is to get to Cleo's Needle, then over to Wiessner Wall and Turks Tooth, down scramble a few feet from the route "Point of Balance" (great climb BTW) to an out cropping, set TR there.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Which finish did you do rhoads? Right or left?

By Tradoholic
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Right, for sure. Didn't even consider taking the easy way ;)

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 1, 2010

I agree the grade is maybe only 510b. The climb seems a bit easier then other 10c's in the park and the fact you don't have to fiddle for gear...plug n go.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thought it was definitely 10c, great climb!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely felt like 10c on the sharp end! This route is fantastic- I can't believe the consistency of the moves and the finger locks! Good pro, good moves... awesome route.