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The Green Room 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Dieckhoff (os) & Emma Williams
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p182 new Rossiter Eldo guide

Upper Rincon, just to the left of P3 of POINT BREAK.

Barrel roll over the initial bulge and gyrate up into a shallow corner. It's possible to fiddle in a tiny RP here, and even if it only holds body weight, I'd recommend it. Head up and left over the bulge (5.7 & very serious if the moves were harder) to find good protection then weave up and left across the face. Good protection is found frequently. Stay below the froth above and above THE REEF below and continue left until you reach a clean thin crack. Follow this (crux) up and then left to another crack which leads to the belay in the recess shared with FrontSide LipSmack. Follow P2 of that route to the top.

Both this route and FrontSide LipSmack to it's left are seen clearly from the Eldorado Canyon Trail. Once past THE REEF each route is swell.


Protection 

Many thin & medium pieces for P1 and add a big cam or two for P2.



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By steve dieckhoff
Nov 9, 2001

The reference to p182 of Rossiter's guide is to where it would probably had we done this route in time...

I've found out that there is a Green Room in the Flatirons so now it's a little confusing-rather like having a SONIC YOUTH at every crag. This reference was to surfing and being in the 'tube'.

By Brad Bond
Nov 18, 2002

I found the moves over the initial bulge and up to the good protection to be about 5.8+ vs.-- as in insecure high stepping on licheny holds with a 30 ft. ledge fall. (Sounds like "vs" to me!)

So I, as the Brit's like to say, "wobbled." I traversed up and right to the second bolt on Pt. Break and clipped it with a double-length runner and this gave me no rope drag problems with the rest of the route. Even with this bolt clipped 20 ft. to my right, running out the 8+ was still "s," but made me happy about not having to deal with getting absolutely wrecked if I fell.

From the good pro, follow the path of least resistance leftward below a roof system and around the corner to good footholds at the lip of the reef and the crux. Stepping around the corner and bridging up the well-protected crux provides for some of the best moves in Eldo in a very wild position. I will do this route again!

It might be a good idea to swing by Neptune's and take a look at the topo before setting out on this thing.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2007

Can the topo be scanned and posted?