The Green Hornet 5.11b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Hammond and Amos Whiting, Nov. 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mark Hammond on Nov 16, 2010 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Climb the shallow corner/seam until it bends left and join the arete. Make a key placement and balance up to clip the first bolt. The crux is in this vicinity.
One more bolt and the #4 Camalot will take you to the rubbly ledge at the dead tree.
Pitch 2 steps left and up arete into corner. Aim for the upper arete, clipping the final bolt to get there. Climb straight up the arete, protecting in horizontals.
Location Start from the optional belay stance at the end of the 5.9 climbing on the Green Spur.
Protection RPs to #4 Camalot. Could probably get by with nothing bigger than a #2 although I placed the #4 on both pitches. HBs, C3s, small Aliens are key. Consider ballnuts, I think a good one may go where I had a very shallow C3. This climb could be R rated without the right tiny gear or the skill to place it.
| Comments on The Green Hornet |
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By Mark Hammond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 16, 2010
| The 5.10 rating is a guess. It felt hard, but it was snowing and blowing like Crazy during the FA, and my feet were wooden.
Edit to add: After climbing it again in better weather, I'm giving it 5.11b. |
By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c R
| Maybe "Eldo 5.10", pretty thin. Felt one more bolt could have been placed lower on the crux. Fun, spicy, exposed feeling climbing. Some of the thin edges are brittle and will clean in time.
Additional description: Variation of P4 of Green Spur. Pass the big roof and instead of climbing the standard large dihedral/corner section on the right, climb the arete/face on the left/straight up to the dead tree belay. |
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c R
| It's a long way (20' or so) from the "key" placement (a good stopper) to the 1st bolt, and you will encounter crux climbing over less-than-ideal stone over that stretch. Above the stopper and below the bolt, I didn't see much in the way of gear that was worth fiddling with. Given that, I think that an otherwise worthy climb will not become popular enough to clean up from a 2 star to a 3 star route. That's too bad, because it's really a nice, inspired addition. |
By Todd Felix
Apr 22, 2011
| The link above didn't work; here's a better link to the ACE application with a pic of the route:
ACE Application |
By mike schlauch
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b PG13
| This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good. |
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