The Green Hornet
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Climb the shallow corner/seam until it bends left and join the arete. Make a key placement and balance up to clip the first bolt. The crux is in this vicinity.
One more bolt and the #4 Camalot will take you to the rubbly ledge at the dead tree.
Pitch 2 steps left and up arete into corner. Aim for the upper arete, clipping the final bolt to get there. Climb straight up the arete, protecting in horizontals.
Start from the optional belay stance at the end of the 5.9 climbing on the Green Spur.
RPs to #4 Camalot. Could probably get by with nothing bigger than a #2 although I placed the #4 on both pitches. HBs, C3s, small Aliens are key. Consider ballnuts, I think a good one may go where I had a very shallow C3. This climb could be R rated without the right tiny gear or the skill to place it.
|Comments on The Green Hornet
|By Mark Hammond|
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 16, 2010
The 5.10 rating is a guess. It felt hard, but it was snowing and blowing like Crazy during the FA, and my feet were wooden.
Edit to add: After climbing it again in better weather, I'm giving it 5.11b.
|By Garrett Bales|
From: Lake City, CO
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c R
Maybe "Eldo 5.10", pretty thin. Felt one more bolt could have been placed lower on the crux. Fun, spicy, exposed feeling climbing. Some of the thin edges are brittle and will clean in time.
Additional description: Variation of P4 of Green Spur. Pass the big roof and instead of climbing the standard large dihedral/corner section on the right, climb the arete/face on the left/straight up to the dead tree belay.
|By Ross Keller|
From: Parker, CO
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c R
It's a long way (20' or so) from the "key" placement (a good stopper) to the 1st bolt, and you will encounter crux climbing over less-than-ideal stone over that stretch. Above the stopper and below the bolt, I didn't see much in the way of gear that was worth fiddling with. Given that, I think that an otherwise worthy climb will not become popular enough to clean up from a 2 star to a 3 star route. That's too bad, because it's really a nice, inspired addition.
|By Todd Felix|
Apr 22, 2011
The link above didn't work; here's a better link to the ACE application with a pic of the route:
|By mike schlauch|
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b PG13
This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good.