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The Green Hornet 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mark Hammond and Amos Whiting, Nov. 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Mark Hammond on Nov 16, 2010
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  • Description 

    Climb the shallow corner/seam until it bends left and join the arete. Make a key placement and balance up to clip the first bolt. The crux is in this vicinity.

    One more bolt and the #4 Camalot will take you to the rubbly ledge at the dead tree.

    Pitch 2 steps left and up arete into corner. Aim for the upper arete, clipping the final bolt to get there. Climb straight up the arete, protecting in horizontals.


    Location 

    Start from the optional belay stance at the end of the 5.9 climbing on the Green Spur.


    Protection 

    RPs to #4 Camalot. Could probably get by with nothing bigger than a #2 although I placed the #4 on both pitches. HBs, C3s, small Aliens are key. Consider ballnuts, I think a good one may go where I had a very shallow C3. This climb could be R rated without the right tiny gear or the skill to place it.



    Comments on The Green Hornet Add Comment
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    By Mark Hammond
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Nov 16, 2010

    The 5.10 rating is a guess. It felt hard, but it was snowing and blowing like Crazy during the FA, and my feet were wooden.
    Edit to add: After climbing it again in better weather, I'm giving it 5.11b.

    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 21, 2010

    The ACE application shows a picture of the route.

    By Garrett Bales
    From: Lake City, CO
    Mar 14, 2011
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R

    Maybe "Eldo 5.10", pretty thin. Felt one more bolt could have been placed lower on the crux. Fun, spicy, exposed feeling climbing. Some of the thin edges are brittle and will clean in time.
    Additional description: Variation of P4 of Green Spur. Pass the big roof and instead of climbing the standard large dihedral/corner section on the right, climb the arete/face on the left/straight up to the dead tree belay.

    By Ross Keller
    From: Parker, CO
    Mar 21, 2011
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R

    It's a long way (20' or so) from the "key" placement (a good stopper) to the 1st bolt, and you will encounter crux climbing over less-than-ideal stone over that stretch. Above the stopper and below the bolt, I didn't see much in the way of gear that was worth fiddling with. Given that, I think that an otherwise worthy climb will not become popular enough to clean up from a 2 star to a 3 star route. That's too bad, because it's really a nice, inspired addition.

    By Todd Felix
    Apr 22, 2011

    The link above didn't work; here's a better link to the ACE application with a pic of the route:
    ACE Application

    By mike schlauch
    Jul 16, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

    This is a nice addition to the area. Before the first bolt, the climbing is 11a and you can place good small/medium gear. Lowe Balls would be nice to have but not mandatory. The key gear is about 7 feet below the first bolt - a blue alien and two small offset brass nuts just below below that. The second pitch is also very good.

    By Todd Felix
    Jun 11, 2013

    My buddy and I both bailed off that first pitch due to hard climbing over uninspiring gear below the first bolt. Too bad because it's a stellar pitch (we did TR it). Now I think I know what the "key placement" is (not the stopper 20 feet below that Ross mentioned; the gear he thought wasn't worth fiddling with...and he may be right), but we didn't have that piece of gear at the time. Still, I'm not sure how excited I'll be to climb above that piece in the future--pretty thin gear, and a long way from what I'd consider solid gear. The second (last) pitch is great though! Don't miss that one. It's maybe 5.10a and makes a spectacular finish for Green Spur.