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> Big Thompson Ca…
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> White Dike Area
The Green Giant
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in White Dike Area
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1976 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mystery 13 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Petit Piton T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Dike, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Matz & Cale Farnham |
| Page Views: | 638 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Matz on Sep 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Access Issue: CLOSED - Private Property
Details
This property lies on private property owned by Sylvan Dale Ranch.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
Description
Smearing, offwidth, handcrack, fingercrack, chimneying to a layback, this climb offers it all. Gear placements are tricky and some rock is loose.
P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the buttress to rap my rope around for anchor.
P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner, and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. This has great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rockfall has potential.
Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.
P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the buttress to rap my rope around for anchor.
P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner, and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. This has great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rockfall has potential.
Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.
Location
This route is better seen heading downstream but lies acrossed the river 100 feet left of White Dike. On the arete feature of the river bend. Cross the river upsteam from the bend, climb the 4th class ledges up to the green dihedral. After P2, exit to climber's left through a notch to the 4th class gully to the west. Kinda tricky but a good sheep run.
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