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Green Adjective Gully
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The Green Adjective 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA: George Lowe
Page Views: 14,251
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (198)
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Me on the 5-10 start. Protected by a orange metol...

Description 

This is the perfect thin seam crack that runs up the Perhaps Area wall. It starts on top of a nice, sunny, flat perch called the "Sun Deck Boulder". Start either with a direct 5.10a start (spicy with tricky pro, bring your small stuff). Alternatively, traverse in 15' up on a nice foot shelf, but this misses out on some good climbing. Work up the crack placing mostly small stoppers and cams. The climbing gets easier higher up. Anchors are on a shelf 80' up.

There are two more pitches to this climb, but most people rap after the first. I haven't climbed them, but pitch 2 is supposed to be 5.6, and pitch 3 is a 5.7 squeeze chimney if you should want to try them.

Protection 

Very small gear. 2 sets of nuts and offsets would be nice. Also, very small cams are helpful.


Photos of The Green Adjective Slideshow Add Photo
non but shot
non but shot
das craiger cruisin the green adjective 5.9 ****
das craiger cruisin the green adjective 5.9 ****
I climbed this variation to the 3rd pitch back in September ('12). I haven't found any info about it though. Anyone know what it is, or if it is even established? It WAS full of bird shit..., but was also a perfect hand crack arching into a crimpy traverse that takes you right to the start of the OW proper. Pretty fun variation I thought. (minus the bird crap...) If you have any info, please let me know.
I climbed this variation to the 3rd pitch back in ...
Green A goodness
Green A goodness
Fiddlin' in another thin wire. 1994
Fiddlin' in another thin wire. 1994
Blood, Sweat and tears....followed by a Jamba Juice to celebrate not breaking my ankles.
Blood, Sweat and tears....followed by a Jamba Juic...
The beautiful Green A seam!
The beautiful Green A seam!
Green A in 1994
Green A in 1994
Finger locks
Finger locks
Casey climbing Green Adjective
Casey climbing Green Adjective
almost to the top of P.1
almost to the top of P.1
A beautiful evening on the Green A
A beautiful evening on the Green A
Green A on the cover of Climbing July 2005.
Green A on the cover of Climbing July 2005.
The manky anchor on top of pitch two.  As Nathan mentions, 2 bad bolts, 1 good.
The manky anchor on top of pitch two. As Nathan m...
Making the moves on the Green A just above the 5.10 start. This was the day before a climber popped his gear in this exact same spot and ended up in the hospital.
Making the moves on the Green A just above the 5.1...
Lee seeks for friction while he moves his hands up the thin finger crack.
Lee seeks for friction while he moves his hands up...
Almost over the hard part
Almost over the hard part
I found a larger pic of the Climbing Magazine July 2005.  It's tough to make anything out in the other one. <br /> <br />From Climbing Magazine:  <br /> <br />Editorís note: Despite the fact that three of our staff members have done Serenity Crack, and one learned to climb with Palais, the cover subject, we still missed this captioning mix-up. The cover of the July issue is indeed Green Adjective, 5.9.
I found a larger pic of the Climbing Magazine July...
Celebrating my 39th birthday last year in the only suitable fashion.
Celebrating my 39th birthday last year in the only...
Green A classic tips
Green A classic tips
The 3rd pitch OW on The Green A
The 3rd pitch OW on The Green A

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 26, 2014
By Vince Romney
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The direct start protects nicely with a #1 stopper or similar. It's only one move of .10a, with a flat landing if you slip while placing the stopper.
By Vince Romney
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

...almost forgot. Link this with MA#1 and you have a highly entertaining 3-pitch climb with seam, layback, hand, and offwidth techniques. Enjoy!
By Leroy Fielding
Jun 22, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Beautiful line!!!! I led this for the first time a few days back, just amazing. The 10a start isn't too bad, but it almost felt harder at the 5.9 crux. Can't wait to do this one again.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 4, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I only give this 2 stars well for my own hidden reasons. I am with-holding the final "possible" star until I do the route in it's entirety. Alright!! I will tell you my reasons. The climbing wasn't varied enough and the exposure wasn't present. Like I said let me climb the entire route and it may become 3 *'s

Otherwise an exciting climb. The original start is fun , but the direct start is not much harder.

OUTDATED COMMENT. SEE NEXT!!!
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear Alert
Alright, it gets three stars. But only if you do all three pitches.

Pitch 2 goes from the anchors up the easy scramble, past a set of anchors on the left (Base of Meat Puppet), and up to and past another set of anchors (Prepositional Phrase). It continues up, to the left of the tree around the right of the prow, and up the crack with a green face to the right to a 3 bolt (2 old, 1 new) anchor. The best part of this pitch are the two right-facing cracks. The first being just below the Prepositional Phrase anchors, the second crack being green face crack. Pitch 3 is a fun (lol) squeeze/offwidth. The trick on this pitch is to find gear. We placed a red Metolius at the base of the crack, a #2 Camalot( our largest) just before the crack deepens and widens, and a small nut in the horizontal crack on the left wall. Bring really big gear, or run it out. The other question is do you face right or left. Both my partner and I did it differently.

The anchors at the top are again 3 bolt (2 bad + 1 good). We left a sling as all slings were dead. We then rapped, with a 60-meter, to the east aiming for the Prepositional Phrase anchors. We were about 10 feet short, so be careful or better yet, rappel to the north and the other 3-bolt anchor, and rap off that one to gain Prepositional Phrase's anchors.

Definitely beware of the old bolts. Oh, and also, the piton on the final pitch is absent (this is where the small nut went). Finally, it was very wet still in the squeeze.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2005

Definately 3 stars in my book, especially if you skip the last pitches! Mislabled as "Serenity Crack" on the cover of Climbing magazine's Trad issue (the Natural line) a few months back. I love this route, I think it is so pretty, and always a classic worth doing every spring and fall. Thin nuts, thin feet, thin jams...OH YEAH, this is what LCC is all about!
By vincent pierce
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Looking up at this thin crack you think "no way"... but somehow there are just enough fingertip holds and fingerjams to get you up. It actually protects fairly well with little nuts. One of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Beautiful line. There used to be a back breaking boulder to land on at the bottom. glad it's gone. excellent finger tips and slab feets as i've t.r.'d it w/out touching the crack and bare foot using only the crack. there's a good blue tcu spot right off the ground makes a good directional to keep all those tiny stoppers in the crack
By Tea
Feb 26, 2006

Do yourself a favor and don't bother placing gear down low. Boulder out the 10a to the toe rail rest about 12 feet up...place a few good nuts, and blast it, placing great nuts. 3 stars...anything less is robbing this gorgeous slab climb.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jul 24, 2006

Not recommended in 105 degree heat. We thought it was going to be in the shade most of the morning, but damn were we wrong. Greasy shoe rubber and sweat pouring from everywhere made this seam quite a humbling experience. Lesson learned.
By Blitzo
Sep 9, 2006

A lot of fun!
By Casey Jenen
Jul 23, 2008

This is a great climb and I would highly recommend doing the .10 start it makes it just that much better and it is only one move of 5.10. Pro is great climbing is great just a awesome route.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

great route- definitely spicy if you want gear down low. bring the small stoppers, dont bother with anything bigger than a yellow tcu.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow, great finger locks! It's all small stuff, and good slab feet for placements. I didn't place anything bigger than a # 7 BD stopper a bit higher up. Amen on the directional at the bottom...a must do.
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010

Very nice climb! Slippery face for you feet, so be careful. It is a lot easier for people with smaller fingers, hence only piton scars make the finger locks. Bring ONLY small gear, no big gear needed, as I said only piton scars make this crack climbable. Well worth doing
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 9, 2010

Only did the first pitch, but that was enough for me that night. Had some passive gear pull out leaving me very exposed. This is a great line.
By Pete Spri
Jun 15, 2011

Concerning the third pitch, since I did this recently, having never done it before.

It is described as 5.7 in the book... but that is definately an old-school, LCC "5.7" from "back in the day. The last pitch is a fat crack at the bottom (hand to fist), then it hits a ~5" OW section that is sloped so it isn't too bad to get standing on. At this point you can protect with a fingerish sized piece in a horizontal. This puts you at the crux of the pitch which is a slightly bulging 6" crack that you have to get out and around before sliding into a squeeze chimney. After getting above the bulge, and into the squeeze, I could reach fairly far back in the crack due to being thin, could probably use a 4" (or maybe even a 3" piece) but if not thin, you'll need a 6" or 5" cam to protect this stretch. I did this w/o the cams since I didn't bring them and had foolishly used my 3 AND 4" pieces lower down. At this point, if you have some OW experience, you should feel fairly secure in this squeeze, arm-barring, chickenwinging, and heel-toeing/knee opposition to the top anchors.

If 5.7 is your max trad, don't expect to send this, IMO.

Also:
At the platform at the base of the 3rd pitch is a set of 3 bolts leading off into Green A gully. A 70m will actually get you to the gully floor, even though it doesn't look like it will. If you have a 60m, there is a horn slung not too far from the bottom with maybe 5 old slings and several rap rings, enabling you to get down in 2 raps.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Jun 27, 2011

If finger locks and slab footwork are your thing, this climb is an ultra classic.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 11, 2011

Add onto Spri's beta. You CAN rap east into the gulley over goodro's nightmare with a 60m rope in one go. land 10 ft up the low angle slab to the climbers right of goodro's and you are all set.
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Dec 5, 2011

awesome, must give thanks to all the pin scars. I miss this monthly "must do" climb. what I want to know is how many pins were driven in to make this climb so nice? 100s? a 1000?
By mikeinvt
Jul 28, 2012

My friend suggested I wait till it went into the shade to try this one. I'm glad I listened. Only did the first pitch, but it is a stellar one. No gear worth placing until the toe rail rest, however the protection is great for the rest of the pitch.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Finally sent this clean. Had to work up to it and then fired up it in the cold temps. A blue mastercam is the perfect first piece after the 5.9 start followed by a green peenut, a 0 camalot (which sits perfectly one way, but is crap the other) for the crux and a final .3 X4 for the finish. Temperature matters for this climb.