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Shovel Point
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The Great Yawn 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,790
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 13, 2006

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The hanging belay on The Great Yawn. 5.6

Description 

A fun climb beginner climb, that is also very leadable. When I lead it I rapped down to a small ledge (maybe 25 ft above the water) and built an anchor and climbed up from there. If you are top roping you can lower all the way down to the water. The route follows a dihedral with a large crack in it and allows for some good jamming.

  • RCM&W #23, p.235.


Location 

This route is towards the end of shovel point, maybe 100 yards or so down the trail from Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries. This route begins in a dihedral, near one of the many boarded lookouts/rest areas. I'll try to add better beta after my next trip to Shovel Point.


Protection 

Standard Rack with a few large pieces, I racked to a #4 camalot and felt pro was adequate. Webbing off trees for the TR setup. There maybe be large bolts installed by the forest service atop this route.



Photos of The Great Yawn Slideshow Add Photo
Judith on The Great Yawn.
Judith on The Great Yawn.
Bobo on the Great Yawn
Bobo on the Great Yawn
The Great Yawn.
The Great Yawn.
Joel at the base of the Yawn, just before I led it.
Joel at the base of the Yawn, just before I led it...
The two MONSTER bolts installed at the top of the great yawn. Don't worry they are supposed to swivel. Please use them instead of the trees, its much lower impact.
BETA PHOTO: The two MONSTER bolts installed at the top of the ...
Looking up The Great yawn
Looking up The Great yawn
Comments on The Great Yawn Add Comment
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By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 12, 2008

I didn't lead this route but seconded it. For pro a #6 BD cam is nice or big bros.

The belay was all hanging, we rapped and then set the anchor right as the crack gets to a hand crack. There is a little ledge but like 1 ft. out maybe, not much of a ledge.

The crack is a very odd one. Its about big enough for half your body but not big enough for chimneying. My brother almost fell out of the off width and he would have hit me and that would have been an epic. So just a heads up.



And yes now there is two humangous bolts on the top of the climb, they are very nice.

By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
May 11, 2009

Very fun lead. At least bring doubles of #1, #2, and #3. You might want a #4 (I ran it out a little). The offwidth is interesting. And it is many thanks to the MN DNR and State Parks that we have those huge bolts, custom made by their engineers. More may be coming!

By Andrew Smith
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 13, 2013

Fun route despite the name. Awkward offwidth that beginning climbers should definitely give a try. Make sure you bring plenty of webbing to set up anchors.