Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Marcelo Berti Lungo |
Page Views: | 659 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Nate Ball on Aug 22, 2015 |
Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure
Details
Since 2016, peregrine falcons have made the Grand Auditorium their breeding ground. A voluntary closure is in place from Feb. 1st - June 30, 2023. This is not a legal closure, but a suggested one for respect of the birds. Since the viewshed of this area is wide open, they are easily disturbed by people approaching, especially from above. Do not take the Grand Auditorium trail descent, and please keep a conservative distance from below.
tocc-climbing.org/
tocc-climbing.org/
Description
Originally freed in 2010 by a strong sport climber and graded 13b (this is what the guidebook gives it), and wasn't freed again until 2015 by strong crack climbers and re-graded at 12b.
Original gear beta is 5's and 6's. Ryan and Garrreth did it with 1's and 2's. Ana and I went up there and aided the shit out of it, and enjoyed having all of the above.
Loose, mostly easy climbing across ledges gets you to an awkward bolted stance below the roof. Step left on a narrow, unprotected ledge without any hand holds to get into the giant detached flake, then get up into "the stance." The business is only about 15 feet of 60-70 degree overhanging hand/fist crack into an offwidth, then another 40 feet of much easier climbing to the anchor.
Check out this video Ryan made:
youtube.com/watch?v=zLlakGh…
Original gear beta is 5's and 6's. Ryan and Garrreth did it with 1's and 2's. Ana and I went up there and aided the shit out of it, and enjoyed having all of the above.
Loose, mostly easy climbing across ledges gets you to an awkward bolted stance below the roof. Step left on a narrow, unprotected ledge without any hand holds to get into the giant detached flake, then get up into "the stance." The business is only about 15 feet of 60-70 degree overhanging hand/fist crack into an offwidth, then another 40 feet of much easier climbing to the anchor.
Check out this video Ryan made:
youtube.com/watch?v=zLlakGh…
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