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Goat Rock
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The Great Roof 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,262
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 9, 2001

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Pascal enjoying the Great Roof

Description 

The Great Roof is the extremely odvious roof hanging atop Goat Rock. The climb beneath the roof is easy (5.8), yet complicated by the fact that you have a top rope on - you can't go under the rock! Once you're in the large cave, you traverse out the left side, then up towards your toprope anchors.


Protection 

Hike all the way up around to the back of Goat Rock. There are some rappel bolts on top, from which you rappel down to the proper top rope bolts. The route is overhung enough that you will swing a lot if you fall, but no worries, there's nothing back there.



Photos of The Great Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Goat Rock as viewed from the approach.  You can see the right-facing climbs.
BETA PHOTO: Goat Rock as viewed from the approach. You can se...
Paul leading the lower 5.8/5.9 section.
Paul leading the lower 5.8/5.9 section.
The Great Roof and the great swing.
The Great Roof and the great swing.
Goat Rock, The Great Roof
Goat Rock, The Great Roof
Comments on The Great Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002

I remember leading this route many years ago, but maybe I'm thinking of the wrong route. Isn't there a piton or two under the roof? Can this be led safely, and if so what gear would be needed?

By Melissa Moore
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 6, 2002

This is a really sweet climb! The area under the roof is essentially a mini-cave, and a great place to get imaginative with foot and hand positioning and think outside the box to get over the roof. If you take a fall the swing out is super fun, but the angle the rope holds you at makes it difficult to get back under the roof. So, if you come off the rock try to grab a hold on your first swing in, otherwise you will most likely have to be lowered back down to the top of the 5.9 section. When I did this climb the sun had already set, making it very difficult to see any of the holds under the roof. There are some pretty bomber holds to be found if you reach up and around to them however. I definitely recommend this climb if you're going to the Skyline Blvd/ Castle Rock area.

By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 6, 2002

There's a 5.12 crack to the left, and you can use one of its bolts to protect yourself right before the crux of The Great Roof. So I guess you're memory was right, George.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 5.10b part CANNOT be lead safely. Unless you like falling 15 feet and crashing headfirst into the face below. There are at least a dozen bolts in the cave, but the only bolts that lead out of it head up the 5.12 crack to the left.

By Tom Maino
May 6, 2004

I did lead this one in the 90's... pretty committing give the bolts are probably 20+ years old. Don't do it unless you are confident for the grade. I saw a guy fall onto the second to last bolt and it held.. but htat was 20 years ago!

By Miles C
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is extremely fun. And on a top rope, it's very safe. However the bolts do look old in places, and are pretty scarce.

By Joel Frederico
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Old bolts, terribly committing at the top. I wouldn't lead it - I don't think it can be done safely at all. The bit up to the cave is very overhung. Whoever put in the glue-in bolts put at least one in sideways. So if there's weight on the ancher, it'll torque the glue-in. Both bolts have some play in them. I rather wish a pro would come in and do things right.

By Chandler Heppe
From: Nevada City, CA
Jan 4, 2014

Super fun top rope, the moves coming out of the cave are really unique and exhilerating as at one part (if you do it as I did), you have arms and feet out on either side and are facing the amazing view away from the rock with nothing below you, a must climb if you are in this area!!