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The Great Race 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Clubine, Kurt Gray, Allan Wood, Alan Bradley, Dan Hare, 1979
Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on May 3, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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A line of least resistance.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is just to the right of Hands Off. It is short, sweet, and hard. The long list of hard men that put this is up probably tribute to that.

The hardest moves are right from the beginning with very small fingers and marginal feel (for a 5.8 climber anyway). It gets easier (ha) as you ascent with a good shallow hand jam to rest on half way up. It's only 40-50 feet long, but it gives a good workout.


Protection 

Small, small gear, maybe a #1. Anything goes for an anchor.

There is a stuck, unclippable TCU down low in the dihedral.



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By Jason Shatek
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range.

By Todd A
Jun 20, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 19, 2012

I think this route is may be .10b if you have very thin fingers. I couldn't make the moves through the thin section, couldn't even get a fingertip lock with my fat fingers (and it doesn't help that the rock is absolutely polished with no real footholds to start), so I can't rate this; my friend who climbs solid 5.11 said he felt this was .10d/.11a.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 1, 2013

It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced.