This is a variation on the normal Spire 4 route. Instead of climbing up the back to the 3/4 gully, belay off the bolts for the approach pitch. Climb around the corner on the opposite side of the gully to a sloping ledge with an old piton in a crack. Set a belay and climb the dihedral to a chimney and under the broken spire. You can either set your own belay on gear or downclimb to the anchors above the wormhole. The last pitch is the same as the traditional route.
Start at the base of the Spire 4 tree or climb the 3/4 gully. Three single rope rappels gets you to the base of the Spire 4 tree.
Standard rack and a #4 or #5 Camalot for the dihedral. Take some single and double length slings to sling horns. Fixed anchors atop the approach pitch, optional anchors atop the wormhole, and anchors at the top.
BETA PHOTO: The Great Northwest Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 1 from the Spire 4 "tree"
Sam S. leads the 1st pitch of the Great Northwest ...
Jeff J. and Sam S. on the 2nd Pitch of the Great N...
Jeff J. and Sam S. on the Great Northwest Dihedral...
Looking up pitch 2 from the cozy belay in the chim...
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 2, 2010
I was climbing Spire One while you guys were on this. Looked like a lot of fun!
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is a terrific climb, with a lot of exposure on the first pitch. Although most of the first pitch is very easy, in my opinion the crux dihedral is at least 5.7 (for about 15 very exposed and continuous moves). It's a great way to do Spire 4, with a variety of different climbing to the top -- but the dihedral was not the easy romp that I sort of expected. I was glad I took plenty of gear with me to sew up that crack on the right side of the dihedral. (Cams up to a BD #4)