|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 280'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Herb and Jan Conn|
|Submitted By:||AndyKemedy on Aug 1, 2010|
|Comments on The Great Northwest Dihedral||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 2, 2010
|I was climbing Spire One while you guys were on this. Looked like a lot of fun!|
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|This is a terrific climb, with a lot of exposure on the first pitch. Although most of the first pitch is very easy, in my opinion the crux dihedral is at least 5.7 (for about 15 very exposed and continuous moves). It's a great way to do Spire 4, with a variety of different climbing to the top -- but the dihedral was not the easy romp that I sort of expected. I was glad I took plenty of gear with me to sew up that crack on the right side of the dihedral. (Cams up to a BD #4)|
By Matt Edlund
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 19, 2015
Amazing route and summit! Definitely worth doing the approach pitch from the north side (behind the Spire 4 tree) as opposed to the slog up the 3-4 gully to get to the bolted rap anchor.
As mentioned, climb approach pitch behind the Spire 4 tree and build an anchor with gear and the piton at the base of the dihedral (don't clip the chains unless you love rope drag). Climb beautiful dihedral with plenty of gear in the right hand crack and then set a belay at a ledge near the base of a blocky chimney. Short pitch up and under some chockstones leads you to a great belay ledge maybe 15 vertical feet above the wormhole chains/rap anchor. From there it's a lovely final pitch to the summit, complete with the awesome step across. My second was quite happy that I set a directional sling off to the side of the anchors on top to help with rope direction on the step across, as opposed to belaying directly off the anchors. Then 3 single rope raps with a 60 gets you down.
Leisurely approach took 30 min.