For the past century, locals of Baldwin, Maine have heralded the "Great Ledges" as a landmark worth walking to and exploring both for its geological splendor as well as the great view it sports from the top of the surrounding area. One life-long local had told some of the first climbers to investigate the cliff for its climbing potential that he has been going there since he was a kid and that they used to camp out on the top where there exists a small meadow area perfect for a Saturday night getaway. Surprised and intrigued to two people with technical climbing gear on an autumn morning during dear hunting season, he informed them that it was quite vertical and pointed a way to a path that led right to the top. The ledges consist mostly of your standard NE granite mixed in with quartz and crystalline conglomerates. The maine ledge is almost 300 feet wide with a central "headwall" section that from bottom to top goes up to 180 feet.
Go to Baldwin Maine, and ask the locals...
2 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Great Ledges
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Great Ledges:
Noah's Ark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Crystalline Fracture 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For The Great Ledges
Crystalline Fracture 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R ME : The Great Ledges
In-between Noah's Ark and the large headwall, look for an obvious finger crack which moves up and right for about 25 feet. Follow the crack up and over a small roof (5.7). Once you gain the slab above, work your way up and slightly left to the large tree at the base of a gully and set your anchor. The name Crystalline Fracture is given because during the first ascent, a protruding piece of quartz slightly bigger than a golf ball was used as a foothold, but after weighting it, broke off causin...[more] Browse More Classics in ME