Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Fright 
Barney 
Bedrock 
Betty 
Blankety Blank 
Cary Granite 
Dino 
Fred 
Fright Night 
Great Gazoo, The 
Human Fright 
Mr. Slate 
Quarry, The 
Switchbacks 
Switchbacks, Direct Start 
Twinkletoes 

The Great Gazoo 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Sartin Tom Murphy, Sept. 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: Murf on Aug 5, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The one and only

Description 

A interesting face climb that climbs a fairly direct line up the West Face.

Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blankety Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.

To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.

The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.


Location 

The pitch starts somewhat the same as Switchbacks, and can be identified by the bush located on a ledge about 25' up.


Protection 

6 bolts, 1 pin, a few finger size pieces, and a large piece.



Comments on The Great Gazoo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Aug 5, 2009

The grade is tentative,due to the fact that I don't know if it has seen a second ascent.