|Slhanay (The Squaw)
An excellent and well-protected journey featuring a variety of movement. A classic climb for sure.
- P1 (10d) The first pitch is long and steep (150+ feet), but fortunately protects well with a standard rack. Felt soft for a 10d, but that is what the guide gives it. A moderate lieback (hands) takes you to a short blank section and then to a finger crack. Traverse out the finger crack to the base of another hand crack. Up the hand crack and continue up until you get to the bolted belay. I thought the finger crack and first bit of the hand crack was the crux, and it seemed soft for 10d.
- P2 (5.8) Take the low angled crack up and to the right. I passed the bolted belay and continued all the way up to the base of the steeper lieback crack of the next pitch and built a belay. Bomber hand size gear is available for the belay.
- P3 (10c) Up the corner. Starts moderate and gets progressively harder all the way to the next anchor. One bolt protects the start of the crux. Bomber pro the whole way, but the final moves to the anchor are a touch exciting.
- P4 (10c) Super fun, steep, juggy climbing past two bolts and then a long 5.8ish right-trending ramp. The first bolt is in kind of poor shape, but otherwise great protection.
Take the trail until it hits the cliff. Move left about 40'. The beginning of the route can be identified by a left-facing lieback corner that turns into a traversing finger crack.
Nuts + doubles TCUs to #3. Lots of slings for the first pitch.
Brad near the start the beautiful corner on P3 of ...
Brad in the final section of P3 of The Great Game,...
BETA PHOTO: On the ledge after the opening crux of pitch 4.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Classic climb! Three high-quality pitches in the 10c/d range (plus a short easier pitch), each with a completely different character. I don't usually disagree with many of the one-letter downgrades in Squamish, but for this one I feel that 10d is appropriate.
|By Mike Teschke|
From: North Vancouver
Sep 28, 2009
Fantastic climb from the start to the finish. The first pitch definitely seemed about a letter grade harder than either of the last two pitches. If I climb it again I would extend the second short pitch as Andy recommends in his route description.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 5, 2011
Climbed it again. First pitch felt harder this time :)
The final pitch might be hard for a shorter person. My wife had a heck of a time.
|By Eric Fjellanger|
Aug 13, 2012
The first pitch felt like Exasperator with sketchier fingers, so by that standard it seems like 5.10d to me.
We accidentally extended P2 a little farther than suggested in Select, to above the steeper layback part, I guess the pitch was probably 5.8 then. I liked the belay stance just fine.
The third pitch is a lot harder than I expected! I figured I was done when I reached the deep pocket 10 feet above the bolt. I was wrong. Don't drop your guard early.
Pitch four has a short overhanging crux and then is super enjoyable cruising.
|By Nicola Masciandaro|
Aug 29, 2012
On P3, it was nice to have a small TCU to place after climbing above the crux bolt. There is a little move in there before it's over as EF notes.
P1 is technically straightforward but feels continuous if you are not fresh.
Jul 21, 2013
Definitely one of the best routes in Squamish. Even the 5.8 is fun.
As mentioned by most, go about 15 metres past the bolted anchors on P2 and belay at the base of the next pitch. Comfy belay stance and bomber hand-sized gear for the anchor. You won't need much in the hand sizes on P3.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Very good climb- I thought the first pitch was easier than Exasperator by quite a bit- shorter crux, jug to jug with one small finger lock to deal with. The feet are a little harder to spot, but all in all, I found it to be about the same as the rest of the 5.10 on the route- that is, classic and very enjoyable.
For the second pitch, I traversed past the bolts and then climbed the first part of the corner to a decent stance and bomber hand sized gear. This let me see the meat of the .10c section above and kind of keeps the grade consistent pitch to pitch.
The last pitch is cool- but nothing super hard. Just gotta burl for a minute.
Two super long rappels or four short ones with a single 70m will drop you back to the base very quickly from the final rap station.