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Shagg Crag
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Unsorted Routes:

The Great Escape 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,498
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Seann McArdle on The Great Escape. Draws can be se...

Description 

The Great Escape climbs the obvious right-angling fault up the center of the cliff. It's amazing that a route of this grade climbs up this steep wall, as much harder routes exist both to the left and the right of The Great Escape.

This route is pretty much the perfect warmup. It's close to the harder routes and has good holds but maintains a steep angle throughout it's length. However, if you're here just to tick this route, I'd also say that this is worth the trip to the crag.

It's a bit runout to the first bolt. If you have an extra-super long stick, you could stick clip it, maybe. Start off the pile of boulders and begin climbing up and right. Follow the big holds to some tricky moves right below the chains.

Protection 

5 bolts


Photos of The Great Escape Slideshow Add Photo
Jen Taylor finishing up the Great Escape (5.10). Photo: Pat Bagley. Check me out at <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Jen Taylor finishing up the Great Escape (5.10). P...
Chris Duelin taking the victory whip on The Great Escape. Photo: Pat Bagley. Check me out at <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Chris Duelin taking the victory whip on The Great ...
I'm clipping the first bolt on The Great Escape.
I'm clipping the first bolt on The Great Escape.
taken by Russel Johnson, great escape 10c
taken by Russel Johnson, great escape 10c
Alexa climbing to her freedom.
Alexa climbing to her freedom.
Starting the escape
Starting the escape

Comments on The Great Escape Add Comment
Show which comments
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Oct 21, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I should emphasize what the otherwise excellent description doesn't- that literally every single hold on this climb is an immense jug. If you're able to move quickly and fight the pump, you could redpoint the climb if you don't even climb 5.10. Most of the individual moves are super easy.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 12, 2013

Skip the last bolt and make a nice whip from the anchors!