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South Summit Wall
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The Great Escape 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Steve Aldous 83'
Page Views: 1,407
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 21, 2007

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Johnny refusing to relinquish the sharp end on the...

Description 

There is a great drawn topo in the Ruckmans 96' guide on pg.439.

P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+
(in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)

P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13
( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)

P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7

P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4

We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.


Location 

The route is on the lookers right of the South Summit wall, pg. 437 in the Ruckman guide has a great picture.


Protection 

Doubles on everything from #4 camalots to #00 Metolius, long runners very helpful.



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By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 10, 2013

belay 1 uses finger sized gear. belay 2 uses #3 camalots or slinging the large horn with a 48" runner. belay 3 slings the tree at the top. Highly recommend linking the last 2 pitches as the final is a walk across gravel to a 20 ft dihedral.