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Routes in South Summit Wall
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Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Expanding Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gardner's Delight, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Vision T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Brian Smoot & Steve Aldous 83' |
| Page Views: | 1,112 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Jun 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
There is a great drawn topo in the Ruckmans 96' guide on pg.439.
P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+
(in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)
P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13
( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)
P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7
P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4
We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.
P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+
(in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)
P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13
( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)
P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7
P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4
We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.
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