Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Chapel Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berlin Wall 
Chockblock Chimney 
Controlled Burn 
Cosmic Debris 
Drive By Shooting 
Gold Dust 
Great Escape, The 
Heathenistic Pursuit 
Lighten Up 
New Wave 
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade 

The Great Escape 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan McDevitt & Sue McDevitt - 1993
Page Views: 3,494
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Josh coming up P3 of The Great Escape.
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a wonderful, sustained climb with excellent movement. It is also entirely bolted (even the TCU crack at the top!) -- a very enjoyable change of pace from things like the Steck-Salathe.

Begin in the center of the Chapel Wall, well left of Cosmic Debris. Note that the Reid Guide is seriously misleading in terms of the location of this route: The topo on pp. 246 & 247 shows routes 'A' through 'R'. The Great Escape, route 'U', actually is located between routes 'I' and 'J' on this topo.

The start of this route is somewhat hidden by boulders and trees. Begin in a right facing corner at a high-point along the base of the cliff.

P1: Climb easily up cracks to the top of a pillar (a #2 Camalot will protect this, but the climbing is easy). Clip an anchor, and then perform a difficult 5.11a traverse right. Climb up past bolts to a ledge with a small tree (visable from the base). Belay. 5.11a.

P2: The crux. Head up the thin, sustained face above. 5.11c. Traverse right to a belay in a right facing corner/ramp.

P3: Head up the ramp past bolts, then up a crack to a roof. Pull the roof to the right, and continue up to a belay. 5.11b.

P4. Pumpy, but easier than pitch two. Climb up the overhanging crack system past bolts. Traverse left on steeper rock, and then more easily up to a belay. 5.11c.

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.


Protection 

A dozen draws.



Photos of The Great Escape Slideshow Add Photo
Josh at the crux of P3 of The Great Escape.
Josh at the crux of P3 of The Great Escape.
Josh finishing the crux of P3 of The Great Escape.
Josh finishing the crux of P3 of The Great Escape.
Comments on The Great Escape Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 13, 2008

Challenging for the grade!

By superjosh
Mar 17, 2010

This route is really great--awesome featured face climbing, sustained at the grade, totally safe. I had a difficult time finding the base as well, which is unfortunate because the Chapel Wall is a heinous mosquito horror show until you get a pitch off the ground. I think the source of the confusion is that the route topo is right on the binding in the Reid guide.

By Derek Doucet
May 5, 2011

Not trying to begin a huge debate (I've never even been on the route!), but this description seems to indicate that there is a bolted "TCU crack" on the final pitch. Is there in fact an otherwise protectable bolted crack on this route? Again, not looking to start a flame-fest, just posing a simple question. Thanks!

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 5, 2011

Derek,
This route and a bunch of stuff at the Public Sanitation wall have some bolted cracks.
Best.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 29, 2012

As correctly mentioned in description - this route located just left from "Controlled Burn" and Reid book placed it wrong far right.
Administrator, please change the place of this route in the chart " from left to right"

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 29, 2012

As correctly mentioned in description - this route located just left from "Controlled Burn" and Reid book placed it wrong far right.
Administrator, please change the place of this route in the chart " from left to right"
It is stelar and hard route

By Ranger Matt
From: Yosemite NP
May 15, 2013

Use some longer draws on the last few bolts on pitch 3 (or 2 depend on how you're counting).
A little too much drag on the last moves without them.

I think pitch 1 and 2 combined is one of the best face pitches right off the ground in the valley.