Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ferris Mountains
Select Route:
Great Divide, The S 

The Great Divide 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 375', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Bechtel and Tom Rangitsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,946
Submitted By: Tom Rangitsch on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing the crux pitch

Description 

Climbs up a steep limestone arete following 4 pitches. The rock is sparsely featured, allowing face climbing but with very little in the way of natural pro, hence the bolts. A safe, fun outing with great exposure and cool rock. This climb is an area classic, despite of the fact that it is the only route in the area.

P1 Start just right of a small tunnel/cave entrance. This pitch traverses right passing 7 bolts. The tunnel/cave actually goes up all the way to the belay at the top of the first pitch, and several of the huecos on the route go all the way through to the cave. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge. 5.11a, 70 feet

P2 From a spacious ledge, start up the arete proper passing crimps and slopers and about 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge. 5.11c, 90 feet

P3 The crux. Lead up from the ledge staying on the arete. The angle gets steeper and the holds get smaller. 12 bolts are passed on the way to a 2 bolt anchor at a ledge. 5.12c, 100 feet

P4 Easier climbing to the summit with 7 bolts. 5.10d, 80 feet

Descend by rapping the route with one 60 meter rope.

Location 

Second fin from the right on the Ferris limestone. Approach from highway 287 southwest of Muddy Gap. Almost exactly at mile marker 36, turn off on a dirt road toward the cliffs. There are 2 black mailboxes and a yellow 55 gallon drum at this turn. Drive right by a ranch house (don't worry, it's a public road) and continue to the right. Keep to the right when you have the choice for about 3 miles until you come to a small pond. Turn left here and drive up a poor road for about another 2.5 miles until it dead ends at the foothills of the Ferris. From here navigate up and to your right on foot. The walking approach is about 45 minutes to an hour.

There are several other access roads closer to Rawlins, but they get very sandy and become almost impassable in a passenger vehicle. The approach described is the best one we found after several attempts.

Protection 

All bolts, take about 16 and you will be fine.


Photos of The Great Divide Slideshow Add Photo
Another photo of the crux
Another photo of the crux
The Great Divide follows the left of the two aretes in this photo
The Great Divide follows the left of the two arete...

Comments on The Great Divide Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Rangitsch
From: Lander, WY
Sep 29, 2008

To see more photos and a short video, go to
eb.me.com/kondus/DEA/DaveAnder...
By Davin Bagdonas
Oct 7, 2008

Looks like a real wyoming outing. Nice work Dr. Tom! Everyone thought of it, but you guys did it. 3 cheers and good luck on the next outing there.
By Corona
Aug 1, 2011

Pretty inspiring. I'm keen to go check it out!
By BJ Null
Aug 25, 2012

This place looks amazing..

there seems to be alot of development potential...any chance for more moderate long pitches?