|Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look for a bolt directly above then climb out right about 15 ft. then back left to clip the bolt then wander to the top looking for gear placements 5.8 pg13. A committing lead that is seldom done. Most parties rap from anchors at the top of the corner.
This is the right facing corner of the huge block with the Snatch (left side corner). It's start is just before you head downhill toward Gamesmanship. Most parties rappel the route after P2 with 2 ropes.
A full rack up to #4 camalot.The corner takes wires nicely. There is a bolt on the face out left (another climb) that you can clip while doing the short offwidth section. Use long runners before the roof or backclean to reduce ropedrag. Anchors at the first belay and bolt anchors at the top of the corner.
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 1, 2013
Although it is true that Ivan and I made the first free ascent of Pitch 2 in 1976, the first two pitches were climbed the year before by Geoff Smith and Dave Hough using a single point of aid at the crux of Pitch 2. (I should add that Ivan and I had no idea whether anyone had climbed the route when we tried it. Ivan had been thinking about trying it for a while.)
After Pitch 2, Ivan and I declined to try the unprotected-looking current Pitch 3 and instead finished via the SRT. I later returned and did Pitch 3, but by then Smith and Hough had returned themselves and done it, placing a bolt after a very awkward and trying unprotected traverse.
Thus the first free ascent of the complete route was by Smith and Hough in 1976. However, it seems that their third pitch has never found much favor, and so most parties end their engagement with the first two pitches freed by Ivan and me.
|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Apr 16, 2013
Rgold...got any pics of this route? Maybe Ivan does. I've been wanting to do this one for quite a while now!
|By Mark Trotta|
From: Latham, NY
Aug 25, 2013
Comments about gear:
I recommend building a gear anchor at the top of pitch one above the chockstone that is wrapped with tat that normally passes for the anchor. You'll be a lot more comfortable: no hanging belay. Threrfore bring an extra #2 & #3 for that.
I got by using only the lone fixed sling for the Houdini slot crux but looking back that wasn't the safest. I recommend a #3 or #4 deep in the top of the slot for that crux. The rest can go with a single set of cams. In fact the small ones can be replaced by nuts only. Only other thing I recommend is to skip the bolt protection of the off width and do it with a little more style: bring a #5 or #6. They might need to be buried but hey.
Also the rope will really drag if its been pulled in under the slot so take care to extnd those pieces adequately.