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Great Tower
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Cracker Barrel T,TR 
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Great Crack, The T,TR 
Greatest Generation T,TR 
Greatness T,TR 
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Moon Rock T,TR 
Moon Walk TR 
North Chimney T,TR 
Rock Garden T,TR 
Smoooth Bush T,TR 
Steak Sauce T 

The Great Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,545
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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"Great Crack" and a great day.

Description 

Great Crack is a nice long climb on Great Tower in the Prospect Point Towers formation. Start on low angle easy rock and climb up to a nice ledge. From the ledge head left up inside corner. Do a tough layback in the corner crack and pull up to another good ledge. Follow the path of least resistance to the top.

Protection 

Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot


Photos of The Great Crack Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux yet?
At the crux yet?
The Great Tower, The Great Crack
The Great Tower, The Great Crack
Look Down while climbing Great Tower past the crux and almost at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Look Down while climbing Great Tower past the crux...
4/11/2010 - Justin at the crux of Great Crack
BETA PHOTO: 4/11/2010 - Justin at the crux of Great Crack
At the wide spot
At the wide spot

Comments on The Great Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2014
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2006

In this photo you can See Steak Sauce to the right. It climbs through the notch in the roof-
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of the longer moderate leads in the park. While standing on big ledge, the crux can be well protected with a cam placed about 4 feet up and turned by jamming the crack just above the cam placement or using layback technique. Loose blocks greet you near the top. Once on top of the tower you can walk off it to the West and then circle back around towards the lake to pick up your pack.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a fantastic climb and should be on every leaders tick list!
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I took Remo's advice on got on this the other day. WOW!!! What an amazing climb. So tall too. One of my favorite leads at the lake now. A bit tuffer than 5.6 for sure.
By Mike Sohasky
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found that a 4# cam comes in handy near the top in the obvious 10-12 feet of 6 inch wide crack which isn't a give away at 5.6. Fun route, a must do.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 1, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I'm with Mike, a #4 Camalot is nice. It's definitely 5.6, but it's a grovel (arm-barring in a dihedral) to make it 5.6. The route is long, but the actual climbing isn't. Lost Face, Brinton's, Full-Stop and Berkeley are all more fun at the grade and have more actual climbing. That said, if you've done those, you should probably make the hike to this thing.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow 1 star. First person ever to not like this climb :P
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Ha! I figured I'd have to defend the 1 star - I almost gave it a bomb.

10 feet of 5.4 + 20 feet of 4th class + 20 feet of 5.6 offwidth + 30 feet of chunky 5.2 < 4 stars -- at least in my opinion.

Some people might consider this route worth the bushwhacking adventure required to find it, but I do not. There are several better 5.6 routes in the park with better approaches, better and more consistent climbing, as well as better position and aesthetics. I'd much rather climb Full Stop and I only give it two stars.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Maybe you got too strong and all the 5.6 climbing felt like 4th class and 5.2 :)
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 3, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I wish that was the case Paul, but I wimped out and took a hang on Track Cracks earlier in that same day.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 3, 2014

And what's funny/ironic about that is there's the same amount of climbing on Track Cracks as on Great Crack ... both four stars in my book.