Start with the large pocket on the lip and pull small features to get on the face. Head for the arete and pull great pockets until you are forced left back onto the face. Make a tough move to gain an obvious ledge, then execute a tough boulder problem to turn the lip. Great position, very photogenic, fun.
The rightmost route on the inside wall of the pillar. Follows the right arete most of the way
bolts and a clip and lower anchor
|By Phil S|
From: Bethlehem, NH
Jul 30, 2012
This route is incredible!!! It is an excellent AM summertime route because the Cigar provides ample shade in the morning while other sectors are too hot. The upper crux has some of the coolest moves I've ever done and doesn't let up until the chains are clipped (or in my case, even after- my clipping hold broke as soon as I clipped the anchors!). This route felt pretty tough for the grade but I don't have enough experience with routes of this difficulty so I can't say one way or another. Thanks Mike!
|By Scott W|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Harder for me than any of the other 12bs or 12cs in the canyon. Bouldery finish and no gimme.
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I thought the real RP crux was clipping the last bolt, so I skipped it. Not too bad if you've worked the end moves before and know what to expect. Amazing crux sequence, would be hard to onsight! (for me)