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The Grampians 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 12, 2007

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Sunset in Wartook Valley, Grampians

Description 

The Grampians National Park, (also known by its Aboriginal name Gariwerd) is a long mountain range that stretches through Victoria about 250 km north of Melbourne. The largest centrally located town is that of Halls Gap, but Horsham is also near the northern reaches of the range. Mount Arapiles sits alone like the coccyx of the spine of mountains, but those who have visited the Mount will find a significantly different climbing experience in the Gramps.

The rock there is sandstone, but it is often of a softer variety than that of Arapiles. However, there are bullet-hard swaths of rock throughout the range that offer superb climbing. These areas are often spread out, and in extreme cases there are singular climbs that require completely independant approaches. The Gramps reward those who are willing to explore, however, and my experiences there have left indelible marks in my memories.

Because of its geographics, a central camp at Mount Arapiles, Mount Stapylton, or near Bundaleer & Rosea will serve a visiting climber well. There is much ongoing route development and tons of potential for new routes. An equal mix of sport and trad routes grace the often steep walls and caves that are common in the area.

Rest days can be spent hiking and exploring hidden waterfalls and Aboriginal artwork.


Getting There 

Approaches vary significantly depending on the region to be visited, but the park lies north of Melbourne.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Grampians:
Basilisk Direct   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Bundaleer
Twentieth Century Fox   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Mount Fox
Day of the Fox   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   Eagle Rock
Return to Gariwerd   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Camp of the Emu's Foot Road
Dagon's Temple   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Bundaleer
Missing   5.11c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Mount Stapylton Amphitheatr... : The Central Buttress
Weaveworld   5.11c     Sport, 80 feet   The Gallery
Sandinista   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hollow Mountain : Sandinista Wall
Chain of Fools   5.11c     Sport, 50 feet   The Gallery
Two Tribes   5.11d     Sport, 50 feet   The Gallery
Passport to Insanity   5.12c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   The Fortress : The Passport Buttress
Archimedies Principal   5.12c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Camp of the Emu's Foot Road
The Seventh Pillar   5.13-     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Mount Stapylton Amphitheatr... : The Taipan Wall
Serpentine   5.13b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Mount Stapylton Amphitheatr... : The Taipan Wall
Browse More Classics in The Grampians

Featured Route For The Grampians
Lachlan on top of the steep and pumpy Chain of Fools

Chain of Fools 5.11c  International : Australia : ... : The Gallery
Steep jug pulling to a final crux at the lip of the roof. A bit on the shorter side but sure to get you pumped. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International