The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
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Located at the end of the approach trail are two bolted climbs. This is the right line, which begins on an arete.
P1 (70 feet): Follow bolts up the arete and eventually move left and climb through a roof on great jugs to a two-bolt anchor/stance. (5.7)
P2 (70 feet): Follow bolts (~8ish) up the face to the top of the pedestal. Anchors exist on the steep face for a heinous hanging belay, or bring a finger-sized piece and equalize to a bolt on the nice, comfy ledge for a better belay experience. (5.9)
P3 (70 feet): Move belay right 30 feet (through small, chossy notch). Climb the beautiful face following great incut edges to a two-bolt anchor (best to set this as a TR for your 2nd). (5.10-)
Rappel the route.
It is possible to link pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope.
The bolted route immediately to the left of the GBU is a 5.13ish roof project that can be top-roped from the same first pitch anchor.
All bolts and anchors are in great condition, a finger-sized piece is optional for 2nd belay.
|Comments on The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
From: Almont, CO
Jul 18, 2011
The bolts on the face of the second belay are cold shuts. If you feel comfortable, belay on those to reduce damage done to your rope by going over the sharp edge.