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 ADVANCED
Gunnison Mountain Park Picnic Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
GBU roof project S 
Good, The Bad and The Ugly, The S 
Unknown S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 235', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Courtney Scales
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: mike bromberg on Jun 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Looking up the third pitch.

Description 

Located at the end of the approach trail are two bolted climbs. This is the right line, which begins on an arete.

P1 (70 feet): Follow bolts up the arete and eventually move left and climb through a roof on great jugs to a two-bolt anchor/stance. (5.7)

P2 (70 feet): Follow bolts (~8ish) up the face to the top of the pedestal. Anchors exist on the steep face for a heinous hanging belay, or bring a finger-sized piece and equalize to a bolt on the nice, comfy ledge for a better belay experience. (5.9)

P3 (70 feet): Move belay right 30 feet (through small, chossy notch). Climb the beautiful face following great incut edges to a two-bolt anchor (best to set this as a TR for your 2nd). (5.10-)

Rappel the route.

It is possible to link pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope.

Location 

The bolted route immediately to the left of the GBU is a 5.13ish roof project that can be top-roped from the same first pitch anchor.

Protection 

All bolts and anchors are in great condition, a finger-sized piece is optional for 2nd belay.


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By Terence
From: Almont, CO
Jul 18, 2011

The bolts on the face of the second belay are cold shuts. If you feel comfortable, belay on those to reduce damage done to your rope by going over the sharp edge.
By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Aug 16, 2012